A recent informal survey I did among friends and acquaintances revealed that their top travel destination—if they could travel within the next six months to one year—is Japan, followed closely by Singapore, Hong Kong, and a bit further down, Thailand, countries in Europe, and Indonesia (specifically Bali). Nobody mentioned Vietnam, which I found strange, especially after I visited the country myself.
Hanoi was my first international trip since the onset of the pandemic. I’ve been there before, back in 2014, but there’s so much more to discover in Southeast Asia’s oldest capital city that I didn’t mind coming back. From a relaxing cruise in nearby Ha Long Bay, to a vibrant nightlife scene at the Old Quarter, and from eye-opening landmarks steeped in history to exciting food finds at every price point, Hanoi thumps with energy and life at every turn. It feels like such an underrated travel gem for many Filipinos, which I guess it kind of is, but it’s a place that more people should consider visiting, especially for those looking to avoid all of the other places tourists are looking to go to now that travel restrictions have been greatly eased across the region.
Ha Long Bay has drawn numerous comparisons with the islands in and around Palawan
PHOTO: PJ Cana
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Here’s a three-day itinerary for those looking for a taste of the best Hanoi has to offer:
If you’re traveling via Philippine Airlines, your flight gets in in the dead of night, so your first evening is spent resting in your hotel room. But don’t get too relaxed as you should be up early to catch the bus ride to nearby Ha Long Bay. Unless you plan to spend the ride napping, choose the window seat on the bus as you can get nice views of the city, which eventually give way to green flatlands as far as the eye can see.
About three hours later and you should be pulling into Ha Long Bay. The comparisons to the stunning seascapes in Coron and El Nido in Palawan are valid, but Ha Long Bay’s edge is the variety of ships that offer leisurely cruises around the area. We took the one offered by Ambassador Cruises, a five-deck ship that is supposedly the largest and fanciest overnight cruise ship in Ha Long Bay.
A deluxe room at Ambassador Cruise
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The ship has all the essentials: stately rooms, view decks, a restaurant and lounge that serves tasty dishes and drinks, and even an outdoor Jacuzzi.
2 p.m.
In the afternoon, the cruise arranges excursions to the different attractions around the bay. Start with a visit to the Tung Sau Pearl Farm, which, as the name implies, is where artisans grow handmade cultured pearls. There’s a small museum and a live demonstration of the technique based on traditions handed down through generations. Kayaks are also available for rent here.
Take a dip in Ambassador Cruise's Jacuzzi while enjoying the spectacular views
PHOTO: PJ Cana
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5 p.m.
Just in time for sunset, the cruise makes a stop at Titov Island, where you can either go for a swim in the sandy beach or climb the 300-plus steps up to the top of the hill for a stunning, 360-degree view of Ha Long Bay. The exhaustion vanishes once you make it to the top and take all that gloriousness in, trust us.
Sunset at Ha Long Bay
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7 p.m.
You can spiffy up for a sit-down dinner at the ship’s restaurant. Follow-up with a drink or two up at the deck where you’re surrounded by the ghostly outlines of the massive limestone islands and cliffs of the bay.
Day 2
7 a.m.
A pumpboat will take guests bright and early to Sung Sot Cave, a spectacular and ancient subterranean cave network that looks it could’ve been the place where the ‘80s film Goonies was shot. The cave’s exit is up another flight of stairs where you’ll pass another deck with more gorgeous scenic views.
A portion of the Sung Sot cave system
10 a.m.
After enjoying a filling buffet breakfast that includes everything from traditional Vietnamese delights to pancakes and toast, it’s time to say goodbye to Ambassador Cruise and Ha Long Bay and make the journey back to Hanoi.
2 p.m.
On the way back, make a quick stopover at Café Giang, a nondescript café existing alongside a thousand others in the coffee-crazed Vietnam. What’s different about it is that this is, supposedly, the birthplace of egg coffee. Yes, it’s a thing. A local brew with sweetened condensed milk, egg coffee isn’t as bad as it sounds. On the contrary, there’s a kind of calm pleasure you enjoy in that few minutes you sit down with a cup as the craziness of Hanoi envelopes you. Don’t get bogged down by details: you’re in Hanoi with egg coffee—savor the moment.
The neighborhood around Cafe Giang, which serves supposedly the original egg coffee
6 p.m.
Check in to your hotel (we recommend the Pan Pacific, which is centrally located and faces the picturesque West Lake), and then go down to Pacifica Restaurant for a filling buffet dinner. (Make sure to get the lobster grilled with garlic and butter).
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9 p.m.
Change into your best night-out clothes and hit Ta Hien a.k.a Beer Street in the Old Quarter. There’s a crush of people here every night, but weekends are especially intense. Bars are relatively quiet during the day but roll out tables and plastic stools at dusk. Attendants wave potential patrons over and try to get them to stay to order the local beers and bar chow, but don’t count on space if you get there during the late evening to early morning rush. Some say this area is too touristy, but what are you if not a tourist?
Entrance to Peaky Blinders Cafe and Bar
PHOTO: PJ Cana
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Still, if you prefer someplace quieter and less crowded, look for slightly out of the way dive bars and speakeasies around the periphery of the Old Quarter. There’s one we chanced upon called Peaky Blinders Coffee and Cocktails. The answer is “yes” if you’re curious to know if it has anything to do with the acclaimed drama series starring Cillian Murphy, but “I don’t know” if the question is whether they have permission to use the IP. Still, the bar’s quiet (-er than Beer Street Central), and they serve a mean Old Fashioned. Just what you need to cap off your second day in Hanoi.
Day 3
8 a.m.
It’s going to be a long day, so fill up with a heavy breakfast at the hotel (they serve pho, if that’s what you have a hankering for at this hour). Then, make your way to the Temple of Literature, a nearly thousand-year-old temple built in honor of the philosopher Confucius. The complex is divided into five courtyards, which culminates in a two-storey building that houses statues and altars of great thinkers and philosophers throughout history.
Temple of Literature
From here, it’s a short ride to the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. Before you pay your respects to the founder of modern Vietnam, be sure to check out the One-Pillar Pagoda, a Buddhist Temple whose history stretches back to 1028. There’s time for a few snapshots in front of the massive building that is the resting place of the former President and revolutionary leader.
The mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh is a major tourist attraction
PHOTO: PJ Cana
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12:30
Stop for lunch at the Home Moc Restaurant, located in an old French-style villa where traditional Vietnamese cuisine such as spring rolls, char-grilled beef served with rice paper, seafood and mango salad, and grilled pork with fresh rice noodles are served.
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The 900-plus-year-old One-Pillar Pagoda
3 p.m.
In the afternoon, take a quick trip around the Old Quarter on an electric car so you can scope out the areas you’d like to come back to for shopping. The area around Hoan Kiem Lake houses many shops and boutiques; some items by well-known sports brands are actually made here in Vietnam, so there are decent bargains on everything from sneakers, bags, and apparel. (Be careful of counterfeit goods though).
You can get a ride on one of these electric cars in the area around Hoan Kiem Lake
7 p.m.
There’s time for one last dinner so better make it count. Head over to Sen Tay Ho Lotus, a massive buffet restaurant that serves pretty much everything you can think of. With a floor area measuring about 12,000 square meters, the restaurant serves around 150 dishes: there’s a Japanese station, a grill station, traditional Vietnamese cuisine, salads, desserts and more.
The deck of the Ambassador Cruise Ship, where you can enjoy spectacular views of Ha Long Bay
PHOTO: PJ Cana
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After, you can make a stop at a grocery or supermarket for some last-minute pasalubong shopping before heading over to the airport to catch the PAL flight back to Manila. When you land at 6 a.m., you’ll probably be going over the photos from your trip and wondering how soon you can plan a return trip to Hanoi.
Philippine Airlines flies four times weekly to Hanoi. For the most updated schedule, visit philippineairlines.com. For the Halong Bay Cruise, visit the Ambassador website.
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