The 6 Jean Shapes Every Man Needs to Know About

If there’s one thing that’s certain, it’s that denim trends are constantly changing. Think about the last fifty years: flares in the seventies, XL baggy styles in the nineties, then the long reign of the skinny jean which was overthrown by the straight fit. The latest contender on the scene? The barrel-leg.

Anyway – today, almost anything goes. At the menswear shows, there was a wide-leg at Lemaire, an even wider leg at Paul Smith, slimmer shapes at Dior, and, elsewhere, everything in-between. Off the runway, it’s the same story: Jacob Elordi’s all about keeping it relaxed while Austin Butler likes his denim to sit a little closer to his leg. But all that choice comes with a catch: what works on a 6ft2 model in Paris won’t necessarily work for you in Peckham. The real flex is knowing which one actually suits you.

But don’t worry if you haven’t worked it out yet – as a stylist, I've spent years putting men in every jean shape going. That means I’m well versed in matching body shapes with trousers silhouettes and have some advice on each. And, of course, know the best places to find them.

Keep scrolling for the six shapes worth knowing in 2026. Now it’s time to pick your favorite.

If one fit’s having a moment right now, it’s the barrel-leg. It curves out through the knee and tapers in at the ankle to create a sculptural shape that has a cool, intentional feel. Its roots lie with Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto who have been playing with volume for decades, but Alaïa’s responsible for the modern denim renaissance: the brand first showed them in 2023 and they’ve been huge ever since. Keep everything else simple—a plain T-shirt, button-up or ribbed vest on top—and let the shape take centre stage. Japanese brands tend to be your best bet.

The all-rounder. If there’s one fit that works on pretty much every body for every occasion, it’s this. Straight from hip to hem, it sits perfectly between slim and slouchy, which means it gets along easily with everything from a plain tee to a sharp blazer. Levi’s 501 is the OG—and there’s a reason it hasn’t changed since the 1800s. If you’re only buying one pair of jeans, make it these. If you still need a steer, Jacob Elordi is the straight-leg poster boy—aim for his off-duty looks and you’ll be headed in the right direction.

Don’t let extra width scare you off—it’s far easier to wear than most people think. I'm 5ft8 and, originally, thought it wouldn't suit my height—but it turned out to be the most flattering shape I own. The key is the length: the hem should always land around the top of your shoe for a clean, smart line. Too long and it pools, too short and it looks like you’ve had a growth spurt. My top tip? Get to know a local tailor or dry cleaner so you can get the hem exactly right every time. A tenner well spent.

Don’t confuse baggy with wide. Where a wide-leg is structured and smart, baggy is looser, slouchier and more relaxed—on some websites they’ll be incorrectly named, so make sure you look at the photos. It’s a fit that looks relaxed with a hoodie and sneakers but add a chunky knit and overcoat and suddenly it’s the kind of laid back luxe that’s straight from Cruel Intentions – Sebastian Valmont on a day off.

Blame Hedi Slimane for these. The designer’s skinny silhouette defined the noughties—first at Dior Homme, then Saint Laurent and Celine, creating a whole tribe of ‘Hedi boys’. Picture indie sleaze à la Pete Doherty: lanky, a little grubby, usually with a guitar case in tow. Anyway, when the rest of the industry was going wide during Slimane’s tenure at Celine, he stuck to his signature season after season. Now brands like Dior and Gucci are slimming down, once more, it seems he was on to something the whole time. Go slim rather than skinny, and pair yours with a leather jacket, some boots and the look of someone who went out the night before.

Once consigned to the bad side of the noughties, the bootcut has been creeping back ever since Kendrick Lamar wore a pair of flared Celine jeans for his Super Bowl halftime show last year—designed, fittingly, by Slimane himself. The internet called them ‘mom jeans’ —then everyone went out and bought some. Keep the flare subtle and considered rather than seventies and statement: think a touch of cowboy rather than full-on rodeo.

This story originally appeared on Esquire.com.

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