It's Mission Accomplished For Vetements' Demna Gvasalia
Over the weekend, Demna Gvasalia announced his departure as head designer of Vetements. The brainchild of the Georgian designer and his brother, Guram, Vetements set out to disrupt, to hit the reset button for the industry-at-large. And it turned out to be a profitable reset too, with Women's Wear Daily reporting revenues of almost $100m in 2017. All of this on the back of £1,025 recycled jeans, and style based on the mundanity of life.
It didn't make sense to the old school. This upstart definition of luxury was at odds with the carefully curated, upper echelon sense of aspiration, of
Left, the McDonalds-hosted Vetements SS2020 menswear show, and right, the infamous DHL T-shirt
How did this happen? Arguably, Vetements elevated by looking at the stuff high fashion tends to ignore:
And yet, disruptors can only remain as such until contemporaries play catch-up. Vetements' strain of anti-fashion became fashion proper. Baggy fits and streetwear on minute production runs were everywhere, and unless Vetements recalibrates, there's an open vacancy for another disruptor.
Which is perhaps why Gvasalia's departure comes at the right time. Speaking of the decision, the 38-year-old told Women's Wear Daily: "I started Vetements because I was bored
New thinking often requires new talent, and with a wide and far-reaching collective, and Gvasalia's own creative energy still wedded to Balenciaga, another disruptor may come to the fore. The reset button remains primed for another push.
This story originally appeared on Esquire.co.uk. Minor edits have been made by the Esquiremag.ph editors.