The Custom-Made Cheat Code: Omerta and the Bespoke Suit Revolution
Even Gen Z professionals are recognizing the made-to-measure magic of Bespoke tailoring.
by JV Ordoñez
Published on Jan 30, 2026
All things style and sartorial in the big 2026 is what we see as a jumping-off point for a new generation of men and women to the magic of bespoke tailoring and the cheat code that is a perfectly tailored suit.
In the current fashion meta that is obsessed with relaxed outfits and nostalgia-core, we were pleasantly surprised to see local premium bespoke one-stop-shop Omerta seeing an influx of younger Gen Z customers pursuing a more dapper aesthetic over the conformity that is modern-day menswear.
Esquire Philippines got to chat with some of those behind Omerta's meticulous production process and the daily nitty-gritties with their diverse customer base, who seek to find that euphoria in landing that perfect fit.
Jorge Briones, the bespoke tailoring service's master cutter, told us that in his 30 years in the business, the magic ingredient that many folks don't talk about is an item's pattern that lays the foundation for the overall style.
"For me, the first thing is the pattern. The making of the pattern. The fitting of the person," he said in Filipino.
"The second is the fabric. And of course, the making."
The flavor that bespoke tailoring provides is the specificity to different body types and shapes, which off-the-rack options simply can't satisfy.
Omerta, which was initially a Cebu-exclusive tailoring service for those seeking luxury custom-clothing experiences, finally set up shop in Metro Manila at Shangri-La Plaza mall.
A light-colored Omerta gray suit styled and a light gray suit jacket styled with a vintage necktie
Make a Beeline for Bespoke
"Yes, actually, it's mixed. Before, it was only for the established people, the professionals, the people who do bespoke. Now, even the Gen Z people are aware that a made-to-order suit is better than an off-the-rack," Edward Cuenco, Omerta store branch manager and curator, told Esquire Philippines.
With this surging generation of professionals from a breadth of different fields and lifestyles, the need for discerning wardrobe investments is a welcome trend as more people grow dissatisfied with the mediocrity of fashion options and the overconsumption of subpar fads.
According to the manager, Omerta is host to a melting pot of customers that range from high-strung businessmen, young men and women seeking more intentional sartorial choices, and even the occasional socialite and celebrity.
The question is where the challenge lies: styling a complete noob in bespoke tailoring, or a seasoned customer who is very hard-nosed about every stitch.
"Actually, veterans are the harder to please because they are so used to the process and are very particular. Compared to actual first-timers who you can still guide," said Cuenco, who has been in the bespoke tailoring business for about a decade.
It's about damn time we had more tailoring options in the Metro for Filipinos who may need serious style revamps and upgrades.
Menswear is slowly becoming a staple and a go-to style standard for the younger Filipino demographic such as the yuppies and even the outspoken Gen Z people.
The casual sportcoat and light-colored safari jacket are making waves in the business of suave stylings, which could be a calibrated choice for Filipino men and women.
We got to remember that Cebu is still deeply ingrained in the Omerta DNA, but the Manila expansion is still a scale-up from this, with an expected third branch somewhere in the Metro to rise soon.
Manila clientele compared to Cebuano fashionistas is far more diverse, Cuenco said.
"There are people who like clean suits. Very basic suits. Others are more stylists. They look for unique styles."
Think of Cebu as the beta test of the bespoke takeover, with Manila opening up to the mainstream Filipino market.
Trust the Thread Count
A well-tailored suit should feel like an extension of the wearer, instead of some off-the-rack options feeling like Halloween costumes due to their subpar quality in an attempt to emulate high-end fashion trends.
And high-end is right with Omerta as it carries one of the most premier and sought-after fabrics in the world with Loro Piana and Piacenza from Italy. This understandably sometimes makes it a daunting task for many clients to pick between these exclusive fabrics.
"We just really have to show these clients the difference in fabrics and to give them a hand-feel because of the different threads," Cuenco said, referring to how they deal with customer confusion on the different fabric choices.
Omerta is standing on the shoulders of giants with the company it is in, including Savile Row and Hong Kong, as the select exclusive bespoke houses that carry Loro Piana. A true testament to the potential for Manila to compete in the sartorial arts with its global counterparts.
"These days, everyone is making sportscoats. So, it's a different style. Also, the fabric and colors are different. They are coming out in blue, black, and grey. Normally, that's what you get, a safe color. You can wear it on any occasion," Cuenco said, listing out the hot silhouettes for tailored jackets and even color schemes.
"Actually, we have a lot of orders for the double-breasted. It's coming back. So, we have a lot of orders for the double-breasted."
The Omerta curator also notes that their women customers are also quite discerning when it comes to silhouettes and how the material drapes over their frames.
"Especially in blazers. Unlike men, who are single-breasted or double-breasted, they normally wear tuxedos. Women have a lot of different styles in blazers and pants," he added.
Women lean toward boxy blazers and even flare-cut pants as a baseline for custom clothing with the emphasis on a diverse palette of colors.
A white tuxedo outfit with bow-tie from Omerta
Producer: Igi Talao
Photography: Kieffer Carrascal
Video: Teddy Garcia
Styling: Igi Talao
Grooming: Lillian Yeung
Creative direction and layout: Igi Talao
Model: Igi Talao
Story and interview: JV Ordoñez
Location: Omerta Bespoke Shangri-la Plaza
Clothes courtesy of Omerta Bespoke
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