Why The Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop is a Colossal Letdown for Watch Guys
More of a performative charm than a wristwatch.

by JV Ordoñez
Published on May 14, 2026
The expected monumental tie-up between Swatch and independent luxury watch house Audemars Piguet has finally seen the light of day, and it turned out to let down the horologically inclined looking for a fun new piece to pick up after the already profoundly successful Omega MoonSwatch collection.
While rumors of a Royal Oak-inspired pocket watch were the most probable form factor for the latest luxury horological and style phenomenon spawned from the minds of those at Swatch and AP, many still held out hope for pieces that could still be actually worn as conventional wristwatches that resembled the iconic Royal Oak.
A Fad Destined to Die Out?
The Bioermaic Lan Ba colorway of the Royal Pop pocket watch line
.jpg)

Let's face it. These pop art-stylized pocket watches, which are made out of a sustainable bioceramic material, are never going to make a dent in AP's actual sales since, as we said in our speculative piece about the collab, these novelty fashion statements aren't marketed for the ultra-affluent watch connoisseurs.
The pocket watch itself is at least mechanically powered via Swatch's underrated SISTEM51 movement, manually wound for the first time in the caliber's history. We can't deny that the original Swatch Sistem51 watch holds a special place in our hearts since it was also a gateway for many watch nuts to transition from quartz-battery pieces to more sophisticated mechanical movements. Make no mistake, while this may not be for watch guys, there will still be unfathomably long lines for those looking to rock these colorful bag accoutrements for the foreseeable future.
If you want to pursue slapping these Royal Pops on your wrist, you're going to have to MacGyver a strap big enough and robust enough to secure it. Word on the street is that the ever-ingenious factories in China are already working on wristwatch offshoots of the Royal Pop. For the handy watch modders out there, you guys have to do something about the crown positioned at 12 o'clock or risk settling for a really awkward-looking piece.
There are also a few who fancy themselves cultural commentators online who likened the new pocket watch collection to the blind box Labubu creatures that hang on your belt loops and handbags that seem to have taken a vice grip on the global pop culture landscape over the past couple of years.
A close-up of the textured bioceramic dial of the Ocho Negro Royal Pop
.jpg)
A exterior shot of the bioceramic crown and lanyard clip of the Ocho Negro Royal Pop
.jpg)
In case you didn't know, Swatch introduced the now-vintage Pop Watch in the 1980s with quirky designs across a rotating cast of artists. It was meant to be a multi-functional timekeeping accessory that can be used as a desk clock, a necklace, and a traditional pocket watch.
The ginormous 40 mm Royal Pops are still likely going to ride a massive hype train and will be on every bag or belt loop you see in the coming months. Time will tell if the Swatch x AP collab will see these things plummet in value at a breakneck speed after the initial hype fizzles out.

Esquire PH's resident music scribe, wristwatch disciple, and essayist fluent in niche internet subcultures and Philippine politics.
View More Articles About: