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Food & Drink

The Contentious Origins of Bicol Express

We actually owe its modern popularization to a certain Cely Kalaw, who sold the dish in her Malate restaurant in the '70s. But it's more complicated than that.

Like many of our most notable cuisines, Bicol Express' history is strongly tied with legend, folktale, evolving sensibilities, and regional pride. A stew traditionally made with pork, gata, balaw, and siling labuyo, the dish, of course, is famously ascribed to the Bicol ...

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