Tracing the Origins of Justin Nuyda Through Art, Food, and Butterflies

Much has been said about the similarity between a plate and a canvas. Both are blank slates waiting for a splash of colors, whether of acrylic or flavorful sauces. This is especially true during the Justin Nuyda: Origin Story, an exhibit and two-night 10-course degustation held in honor of one of the pillars of Philippine modern art. The exclusive evening was attended by family, friends, personalities from the art community, and members of the press last September 17 and 18 at Hapag in Makati City.

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Who was Justin Nuyda?

It's almost impossible not to pay your full attention when viewing the works of the late Justin "Tiny" Nuyda. His canvas is full of colors, its lines and strokes transcend from one side to another,  and the layers of subjects are almost infinite.

Nuyda was among the inaugural recipients of the CCP Thirteen Artists Awards in 1972. He was best known for his abstract works, though he initially dabbled in portraits and figures. Behind the abstractions are his renditions of the human mind, his reimaginations of landscapes (i.e. his "Portrait of My Hometown"), and everyday life that are interpreted in his way.

'Self-Portrait' by Justin Nuyda

Nuyda's education and training played a crucial role in shaping his artistic vision. He studied at the University of Santo Tomas, where he honed his skills under the guidance of prominent Filipino artists. This period of formal education provided him with a strong foundation in the technical aspects of painting, which he later combined with his innovative approach to create a style that is distinctly his own.

'Search Mindscape: Portrait of My Hometown' (2018) by Justin Nuyda

From the 'Mindscape Series' (1983) by Justin Nuyda

Nuyda also loved collecting and studying butterflies, a passion he started at the tender age of seven. He once proclaimed that it was these winged creatures that he loved first before art. This is evident in the color and wistfulness in his paintings, as if the wings of a butterfly have landed on a canvas.

Art by Justin Nuyda from 1987

Collaboration between H.R. Ocampo and Justin Nuyda (1971)

Nuyda co-founded the Saturday Group of Artists, which is the Philippines' oldest and most prestigious gathering of artists. It has been around since 1968, when the first meeting was at the iconic Taza de Oro restaurant in Ermita, Manila. This elite collective of visual artists would meet every Saturday to either discuss the arts or make art together, whether individually or collaboratively, as two or more artists work on one canvas or paper.

By the time the group celebrated its golden anniversary in 2018, members would still have met at Shangri-La Plaza. They have even undertaken social responsibility initiatives by providing scholarships to art students, conducting art workshops in prison, and raising funds for Gawad Kalinga projects. Some of the members of the group that once shared Saturdays with Nuyda include National Artists Jose Joya, BenCab, and Hernando R. Ocampo; masters such as Onib Olmedo, Galo Ocampo, Eduardo Castrillo, and Araceli Dans; and art critics such as Dr. Rod Paras-Perez, and Alfredo Roces.

Guests enjoy the special 10-course degustation dinner at Hapag while admiring Nuyda's paintings on the wall

Tracing Origins by Coming Together

It is the same collaborative energy of the Saturday Group that Nuyda's daughter, Ayni, wanted to bring back, if only for two nights, through a dialogue between her late father's works and the dishes at Hapag. The artist's works from 1969 to 2018 were on display at the Filipino restaurant until the end of September, Nuyda's birth month.

Stephanie Frondoso, the curator of Justin Nuyda: Origin Story, made sure that the retrospective provided a glimpse of Nuyda as an artist and collaborator. One side of Hapag's walls was filled with portrait sketches made by Ang Kiukok, Romulo Galicano, Solomon Saprid, Ben Cabrera, and other members of the legendary Saturday Group.

Portrait sketches of Justin Nuyda made by legendary artists

"The exhibit highlights a more personal nature of Justin Nuyda’s life and work. It centers around his close friendships and interactions with many artists, as evidenced by portraits sketches made during Saturday Group sessions," Frondoso said in a statement.

Ayni Nuyda with curator Stephanie Frondoso

While the displays satiate the eyes, Hapag's 10-course degustation inspired by Nuyda's works satisfied the diners' senses. The dishes also highlighted the artist's penchant for cooking, especially in his hometown in Bicol.

Much like the collaboration among members of the Saturday Group, the chefs and cooks at Hapag also collaborated amongst themselves, especially the staff, who are also Bicolano. They not only started dialogues on how to best put Nuyda's art on a plate but also immersed themselves in art appreciation through the help of Ayni and Frondoso, as well as delved deeper into the culinary arts and the art of hospitality.

"Creating the Nuyda X Hapag menu deepened our understanding and appreciation of Justin Nuyda’s journey as a painter and passionate home cook. Hearing his stories through his daughter, Ayni, inspired Nav and me to interpret and execute the menu in a way that honors a father, artist, and devoted gourmand," Chef and Hapag Partner Thirdy Dolarte shared. 

"We have changed some of the dishes through colors. For example, we made a course solely because of his love for butterflies and the environment while meticulously making it look like a butterfly that landed on plants," added Kevin Navo, fellow chef and partner.

Ayni Nuyda with Hapag's Chef Kevin Navoa, Chef Thirdy Dolatre, and Sommelier Erin Recto

The menu started with Tinuktok, a sour fish soup with fishball and fresh tomato salsa, topped with fried kamote tops. The next dish was the Lumpia with chive lumpia cylinder, pork and kutchay mousse, and sweet chili gel; paired with Silog served with burong sinangag, Alaminos longganisa, egg mousse, and atsara—resting on a gamet rice cracker.

Tinuktok

Lumpia and Silog

Kinilaw, the third item on the menu, best described Nuyda's profile as an abstract painter. The colorful dish was made with blue marlin in mango vinegar and spring onion oil. Surrounding it are fresh fruits made more flavorful by the blue pea oil and amaranth oil.

Kinilaw

Hapag's version of the Inasal came next. It was made with lobster instead of chicken, and mixed with pineapple salsa, pinakurat, sukang Iloko, aioli, and smoked butter.

Another highlight of the dinner was the Putok, a type of bread one would often see (and buy) from the neighborhood bakery or panaderya. Inside the putok is pili nut butter with hints of lacto-fermented jackfruit, while the top has edible flowers arranged like a butterfly landing on plants.

Putok

Pinangat

What's probably the most Bicolano-inspired on the menu was the Pinangat, which had mixed shrimp, tinapa, coconut meat stewed in coconut milk, and taro leaves. Just before the main course, Kinaskas was served as a palate cleanser. It was made with hibiscus kombucha, strawberry ice, scoby, mulberry, and rose vinegar syrup.

The mains were served family-style, or as Filipinos would call it, 'salo-salo'. The four dishes were served together: Binakol with coconut and chicken broth and malunggay leaves, Adobo sa Asin, Ginataang Halaan, and Ensalada.

Adobo sa Asin

Ginataang Halaan

Ending the 10-course meal was Baduya with cashew miso ice cream and caramelized banana milk, as well as Hapag's version of Petit Four for dessert: Minatamis, Hinorno, Kakanin, and Inasinan.

Baduya

Minatamis, Hinorno, Kakanin, and Inasinan

"Art doesn’t exist in isolation. It is nourished by the connections we make and the environments we inhabit, whether social, natural, or creative. The key message of Justin Nuyda: Origin Story is the importance of collaborations, relationships, and dialogue," Ayni said.

True enough, after sharing each other's stories over a 10-course degustation menu, Instagram handles were exchanged and new friends were made.