The Beef Wellington is Only the Start of the Mouthwatering Creations in Manila’s First Gordon Ramsay-Branded Restaurant
We might be living in the age of celebrity chefs, but few culinary superstars active today have achieved the level of worldwide fame that Gordon Ramsay has. Any person even remotely invested in all things food will be familiar with the British chef, either through his restaurants spread out all over the world, or, more likely, through his appearances on numerous TV shows since the late 1990s.
The interiors of the country's first Gordon Ramsay Bar and Grill
It was therefore a big deal when it was announced that the Philippines was getting its first Gordon Ramsay-branded restaurant at Newport World Resorts in Pasay City. The area at Newport’s Grand Wing where the restaurant now welcomes diners was originally intended for a retail concept, but after Travellers International Hotel Group Inc. (the company that owns Newport) Chairman Kevin Tan personally met and shook hands with Ramsay at an event overseas earlier this year, work immediately commenced on getting the space not just restaurant-ready, but up to the standards of the famously fastidious chef.
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True to its name, the Gordon Ramsay Bar and Grill (we’ll elect to just call it GRBG from here on out) is, indeed a bar with a restaurant concept. Bar stools facing a selection of fine spirits and a lounge area are the first things visitors see when they walk into the space. Turn right and you see a couple of private dining areas for small groups; turn left and you walk into the main dining space. There’s lots of aged wood, soft lighting and browns, maroons, and muted yellows in the space, but there are pops of colors from the artworks hanging on the wall on one side (curated by pop culture stalwart BigBoy Cheng, who is also a partner in the restaurant venture. They’re also for sale, if you’re interested).
Gordon Ramsay Bar and Grill's signature cocktail called Old Man
Head down further and you’ll hit the open plan kitchen. On any given night you’ll likely see a row of freshly cooked Beef Welllingtons resting on the counter, ready to be served to waiting patrons. You can also observe the rush of activity in the kitchen itself; no yelling or cursing to be heard (or so we’d like to believe).
Gordon Ramsay Bar and Grill's famous Beef Wellington
The entire place seats around 85, as per GRBG’s marketing team, and the one right here in Manila gets filled pretty much every night since it opened in late August. It’s also one of the fastest to ever get built and open—from initial negotiations to contract signing to construction to service. They tell us the almost lightning-fast deal happened because Tan and Ramsay hit it off almost immediately after they met.
Fish & Chips
That deal seems to have paid off. We’re told the restaurant has been booked solid almost every night, although walk-ins are accommodated whenever possible. This isn’t surprising, considering that this is probably the most high-profile celebrity chef-branded outlet to open in the country, but it seems GRBG has also benefited from encouraging word-of-mouth. Ramsay has backed up his well-earned reputation with a local team that has generally satisfied Manila’s pickiest eaters.
Crispy Crab Cake with Oscietra Caviar
I can attest to the quality of food and service after I visited the restaurant one evening. The place was indeed packed on the Thursday I was there, but acoustics was good and I could hear the conversation at my table despite the constant buzz of other conversations around me. Warm brioche buns were served ahead of a Seafood Tower composed of chilled oysters, lobster, crab, mussels, and shrimp with a selection of dipping sauces. (We were informed this Seafood Tower is not yet on the menu but will be available to diners beginning October 10).
A trio of appetizers followed, each one more impressive and decadent than the last. The Classic Caesar Salad features aged Parmesan, anchovies and croutons; The Crispy Crab Cake with Oscietra Caviar was a singular treat; and the Aged Steak Tartare was served (and brilliantly so) with potato crisps (or chips).
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Of course, there’s one item that most people come to GRBG for. The Beef Wellington is a classic that has become a signature Ramsay dish. It came to my table warm, with a flaky pastry crust and appropriately medium rare meat. The mushroom and truffle duxelles layer is, incredibly, both subtle and pronounced, adding a rich earthy layer that complements both the beef and the pastry. If you come to GRBG exclusively for the Beef Wellington, you won’t be disappointed.
The dish is served with creamed mash potatoes that is something I personally would come back for.
Fish & Chips, a British staple, is taken to new heights in Ramsay’s version, with golden fried batter enveloping perfectly moist and flavorful pink grouper. Have it with thick cut chips (potato fries) and you’re set.
For dessert, GRBG serves its equally famous sticky toffee pudding, which is sure to put a smile on all those who likes to end their meals with a sweet treat. But Ramsay’s team in Manila is doing themselves one better with the addition of a brand-new dessert (which will also be made available on October 10). The Flamed Bombe Alaska is a variation of a classic Baked Alaska, with chocolate and honeycomb ice cream covered in Italian meringue torched tableside by a pastry expert.
If this is how Ramsay does his dishes, then Manila’s food scene definitely just got all the more exciting.
