At This Italian Restaurant, Pistachio Tastes Like Crab

The pistachio pasta is something else. The description seems straightforward enough: homemade fresh pasta, anchovy, red pesto, pistachio cream, prosciutto chips, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and extra virgin olive oil. One bite, however, is a revelation, like pasta enrobed in a remarkably rich cream of crab that in no way hints at any of the ingredients the menu lets on.

La Spezia just opened its second location in BGC

It's a surprising twist that’s not usual in La Spezia, the little trattoria in Quezon City, helmed by two young, ambitious chefs. The pair, Sean Yuquimpo and Aaron Shiu have always stuck to more classic notes, allowing themselves a few playful tweaks here and there and doing simple (or the seemingly simple) exceptionally well. But in their recently opened branch in Bonifacio Global City, attention must be paid. And there is a higher demand for innovation. 

In-house bread with salt

The classic combination of melon and prosciutto

So, depending on where you stand, this may or may not be good news: the new La Spezia barely reuses any of the dishes that made it such a destination in QC. The burrata with charred corn has been reincarnated as a high-tech caprese—with tomatoes and burrata foam. The Pomodoro has San Marzano tomatoes. There’s also a goose ravioli with goose jus and foie gras emulsion; seven beautifully al dente pillows that will question your ability to share. For long-time fans, fortunately, the Carbonara and Aglio Pesca remain untouched.

Years ago, Yuquimpo and Shiu opened with big dreams: international recognition (even a Michelin star!) and an elevation of the local palate. Today, those ambitions are more defined in their cuisine.

Potato pave

Caprese with a burrata foam

“The main difference between QC and BGC is now we have eight years of restaurant experience,” says Yuquimpo. “We only started trying star restaurants all around the world in 2019, so now we can say we have a broader knowledge in terms of flavor, techniques, and service.”

Shiu also actively competes in international competitions, once being a regional finalist at the 2020 S. Pellegrino Young Chef competition in Tokyo, the only Filipino to manage such a feat.

“It’s a bit cliched, but it’s a huge factor to see and taste food from one- to three-star restaurants,” Yuquimpo adds. “In terms of flavor and execution, BGC has a leg up. It’s more elegant and refined but we kept the location inviting.” 

Agua Pesca

Goose ravioli

It’s unfair to say that the BGC is an improvement over the original QC location. After all, it appeals to different crowds—the former for the comfort-seeking, classic-loving residents and the latter for the more uppity, cosmopolitan crowd. And whether the burrata comes in a foam or not speaks to how the two chefs understand the demands of the diners. 

The Taguig kitchen is also much bigger, allowing them more room to play, including having their own dry-aging chamber for their steaks, another signature. Whichever La Spezia you find yourself in, however, the steak is juicy and perfectly medium rare.

The mysterious pistachio pasta

Bistecca, complete with sides

“Il dolce far niente,” Yuquimpo says, is the ideology in their latest restaurant. It’s an Italian saying that means “the sweetness of doing nothing.” It’s true for the customers, maybe, who are doing nothing but enjoying the meal before them. But for Yuquimpo and Shiu, who are doing everything, it's more than sweet. It's delicious.

La Spezia BGC is at GSC Corporate Tower, Triangle Drive, Taguig; +63917-712-8008; open from Tuesday to Sunday (11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.).