Toyo Eatery X Baan Tepa Is the Collaboration of Our Dreams
Twenty minutes. It only took 20 minutes to fill the entire seating capacity of Toyo Eatery, including its private rooms, the moment it announced a one-night-only collaboration dinner with the well-acclaimed Baan Tepa restaurant located in Bangkok.
It has all the makings of a blockbuster event from the onset. Toyo Eatery of Chef Jordy Navarra is currently the 24th Best Restaurant in Asia by The World’s 50 Best, climbing 18 spots from last year and cementing its status as the Best Restaurant in the Philippines. On the other hand, Baan Tepa was awarded a two Michelin Star upgrade for 2024, making Chudaree "Tam" Debhakam the first female Thai chef in the world to lead a restaurant of this esteemed level.
Three different kilaw dishes (clockwise): goat laab with gamet seaweed, tuna with mak mao and galangal, mackerel with tamarillo and coriander
Deep-fried asuhos fish marinated in kamin turmeric
ALSO READ
Toyo Eatery Is Crowned the Best Restaurant in the Philippines
As Manila is currently gaining recognition as an emerging gastronomic city in the Southeast Asia region, this is a welcome addition to the numerous collaboration events regularly offered featuring international chefs. But what is exceptionally impressive about Toyo Eatery and Baan Tepa’s collaboration, aside from its powerhouse cast, is the high level of cultural exchange at the forefront. This is not the usual his-or-her-dish kind of tasting menu served in alternating sequence. Chef Tam brought spices and produce from Thailand, and the two chefs brilliantly created brand new dishes showcasing each other’s roots.
Aklan oysters with banana catsup and Thai chili paste
Another photo of the chefs in the kitchen
This was the second time they cooked together, the first being in Bangkok last November 2023, where they discovered many similarities in their cooking philosophies. Like a second instinct, it came naturally to them to collaborate, rediscover each other’s style, and deeply learn the nuances of each country’s flavor profile. This was proven when Chef Jordy revealed that they were still finishing the menu around 5:30 p.m., right before the 6:00 p.m. first seating. The result was a refined, well-thought-out, and polished menu that only chefs of their caliber can execute given the spontaneity and without the luxury of time.
Chef Tam's signature dish, Dong Dang Noodles
Take, for example, the case of Toyo’s famous Kilaw samplers, which are a staple on their current menu. The original version of the tuna kilaw was given a different interpretation when mak mao, often called Thai blueberry, was incorporated into the sauce, giving the dish a distinct sweet and tart flavor. Each bite was a burst of tangy flavors that made your mouth water even more—a delightful start to the exceptional tasting menu journey ahead.
Calatagan, Batangas shrimps paired with Dong Dang Noodles
Toyo Eatery's open kitchen
Another standout dish from Toyo Eatery is their fried asuhos fish from Mindanao, this time marinated in a fragrant Thai turmeric called kamin, then topped with deep-fried lemongrass, garlic chips, and chilies. A real umami bomb, the crispy coating packed with aromatic flavors complemented the flaky, delicate white meat. Nothing was left of this dish because it can be eaten from head to tail.
Toyo Eatery's three-cut pork barbecue with Som Tam
One of the highly anticipated culinary creations of the night was Chef Tam’s signature noodles called Dong Dang. Originating from the Udon Thani province in Northeastern Thailand, they are prepared with rice and tapioca flour as the main ingredients, giving them a unique chewy texture that resembles Korean tteokbokki. The shape is short and wide, coming from a manual noodle press that the chef specifically designed and even brought to Manila. These were tossed in a velvety sauce made from shrimp heads resembling our palabok, and served together with grilled shrimps from Calatagan, Batangas basted in inasal oil. There is no such thing as shrimp overload as it masterfully presents a range of techniques on how to relish the flavors of the crustacean.
The author experiencing kamayan
For the next part of the menu, the Toyo Eatery team brought the guests to a sacred spot of the restaurant that is seldom shown to the public. It was a surprise visit to Chef Jordy’s office and R&D kitchen, where their world-famous Pinoy barbecue made of three cuts of pork made a comeback. But as a unique touch, it was topped with som tam, a Thai papaya salad that added a burst of vibrancy. This is a very relatable combination as Filipinos often enjoy our barbecue with atchara made from green papayas too. The Baan Tepa group also brought an intense fish sauce that can be drizzled on top to add depth and complexity to the whole dish.
Thai fish sauce nam plan with caramel and different Thai sour fruits
After this short trip, guests were ushered back to the main dining area, and the tables were quickly set with banana leaves, prompting a kamayan experience. Chef Tam shared that it was her first time visiting the Philippines, and one of her new experiences was trying our pork sisig. She was inspired by this culinary discovery and made her version incorporating a curry paste originating from the southern part of Thailand called kaeng kua. It has dry spices including black pepper and chilies that give a deeper flavor to our sisig. It was a big revelation how the curry complements our well-loved Kapampangan dish so well! It was so delectable that an extra serving of the sinangag with two varieties of Thai rice, Khao Kai Noi and Mao Doi, was warranted. A warm crab salad with pomelo, hearty fish broth, and sides of pickled radish, tomatoes, and kaffir lime completed the feast.
Damong Maria ice cream, ten-year aged calamansi, Thai tea
For dessert, the highlight was the ice cream made from Damong Maria, a popular herb used in alternative medicine, topped with a 10-year-old calamansi aged by Chef Jordy, mixed with reduced coconut vinegar, lychee honey, and Thai tea. This elaborate creation is a medley of flavors and textures, coupled with a skillful integration of each country’s iconic produce.
Baan Tepa, a Bangkok restaurant inspired by its local communities that prioritizes the use of its local ingredients, refined techniques, and sustainability. And Toyo Eatery, a sustainable champion that puts the Philippines on the culinary world map through its continuous pursuit of simple Filipino flavors, humble ingredients, and traditional cooking methods. When their two worlds collide, magic unfolds instantly. This is how all collaboration dinners should be done. This is the collaboration of our dreams.
