Salvatore Ferragamo's Fall 2019 Collection Is a Nod to Genderless Fashion
Creative directors Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland's Ferragamo fall 2019 collection was a celebration of all sorts. With the theme "Generation," it celebrated family, which has been central to the almost 100-year-old Italian brand's success. But what it really was was a celebration of gender and sexual identity.
You could also say it was the duo's second debut. From handling strictly womenswear, Andrew was given more control of the brand along with the menswear side. Meanwhile, Meilland, as announced in February, will handle additional responsibility as studio director, in addition to menswear.
Andrew admits that there's much more clarity now. He tells The New York Times, “When I started as creative director, the company had so many aesthetic visions, and when you went into a Ferragamo store, it was like schizophrenia. You didn’t really know where to put your eye. Now you go into the store and there’s one complete vision between men’s and women’s.”
The collection explored fluidity by offering a kaleidoscopic display of it. The co-ed fashion show featured a nappa, suede, snake, and lizard patchwork motif throughout while keeping the brand's understated signature. A case was also made for the Gancini monogram, which appeared on shoes and accessories. The combination builds a strong new signature for Ferragamo.
Meilland's menswear, however, took on a more outdoorsy approach. Deerskin, corduroy, and technical wool provided a luxurious juxtaposition to the utilitarian designs. What the collection championed was a new suit—a three-button, soft-shouldered cut with wide lapels, harkening to British and Italian tailoring.
The leather-heavy looks were further defined with zipped details. This, along with other key pieces such as the suede straight-legged trousers, were worn by both male and female models. Much of the difference between the two collections were simple tweaks, including more vibrant colors and slinkier fitting shapes.
What topped off the men's look were nubuck trekking boots and the brand's classic loafers, which had a twist by way of a metal detail on the sole. Hard case clutches also provided pops of color to the different full-leather, sportswear, and utilitarian looks.
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