Today I Learned: Why Hermès Birkin and Kelly Are So Expensive
When Filipino celebrity Ivana Alawi decided to treat herself for her birthday, she didn’t opt for a grand celebration or a brand-new luxury BMW car. Instead, she went for something even more expensive—an Hermès Himalayan Kelly 28 Retourné Niloticus worth approximately P12 to 16 million.
In her TikTok reel, Ivana revealed her journey in obtaining the rare piece during a trip to Japan last December. She went to a luxury consignment boutique, approaching the intercom asking to buy a Birkin. She ended up snagging a Kelly instead, replying to one of the comments in her TikTok video that she “chose something else” rather than a Birkin. Still, that “something else” is not to be dismissed. Encrusted with 229 diamonds and crafted from Nile crocodile hide, this exquisite Himalayan Kelly with palladium hardware commands just as much attention as a Birkin—and is just as coveted.
But what is the history behind the Hermès Kelly and Birkin? What are their differences, and how can you buy one?
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History of the Hermès Kelly and Birkin
The Kelly’s origins date back to 1892 with the release of the Haut à Courroies (HAC as it was also referred to), a bag designed to carry riding boots, a saddle, and equestrian gear. It was Hermès’ very first bag and its design laid the foundation for what would become the most famous handbags in the world—the Birkin and Kelly. Hermès’ Chairman and Artistic Director Jean-Louis Robert Frédéric Dumas reimagined the HAC into a smaller, elegant version that’s designed to carry documents. Created in 1928, he dubbed it the Sac à Dépêches, or “dispatch bag.”
Nearly three decades later, actress-turned-Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly made the bag a global sensation when she was photographed shielding her baby bump using the bag. The photos, which made the cover of Life Magazine, boosted demand for the bag, with customers flocking to Hermès boutiques asking for the “Kelly bag.” By 1977, Hermès officially changed its name to the Kelly, cementing its place as a cultural icon.
Today, the Kelly is crafted in two main styles—the structured Sellier and the softer, more relaxed Retourne. Each bag is meticulously handcrafted by a single artisan who have years of training, with each piece taking at least 18 hours to complete, using 36 pieces of leather and 680 saddle stitches. Such craftsmanship is what sets apart these popular Hermès handbags.
On the other hand, the Birkin’s origins began in 1984 when actress and style icon Jane Birkin found herself seated next to Jean-Louis. As the story goes, Jane, who was famous for carrying a wicker basket everywhere, was trying to fit said basket into the overhead compartment. Its lid came off and her belongings spilled everywhere, prompting the Hermès CEO himself to tell Jane that she should have a bag with pockets.
Jane recalled the story in 2012 to British Vogue’s Luke Leitch: “I said, ‘The day Hermès makes one with pockets I will have that.’ And he said, ‘But I am Hermès, and I will put pockets in for you.’”
“I said, ‘Why don’t you make a handbag that is bigger than the Kelly but smaller than Serge’s suitcase?’ And he said, ‘Well, what would it be like?’ And I think I drew it on the sick bag—or the not-be-sick bag. And he said, ‘I’ll make it for you,’” she added.
The result? A roomy yet elegant tote named after the actress herself which took a life of its own. By the 1990s, thanks to pop culture references (hello, Sex and the City), the Birkin became the ultimate status symbol. Today, some rare Birkins—such as the Diamond Himalaya Birkin—sell for over $500,000.
Hermès Kelly vs Birkin: What’s the Difference?
For those new to the world of Hermès, it can be quite easy to mix up the two. After all, they’re both trapezoidal, impeccably crafted, and come with hefty price tags. But the devil is in the details. One glaring difference is the handle—the Kelly has a single top handle and comes with a detachable shoulder strap, while the Birkin has two handles.
Next, the Kelly must be closed at all times due to its single handle, whereas the Birkin can be left open and is often meant to be carried as an open tote. In terms of structure, the Kelly offers two styles (the rigid Sellier and softer Retourne), but the Birkin only has one style.
Both, however, are difficult to obtain and elusive so choosing between them boils down to personal style and preference. A Kelly, with its handle and shoulder strap, offers more versatility in how it could be worn, while a Birkin is an ultimate statement piece that’s effortlessly chic.
Why Are Hermès Kelly and Birkin So Expensive?
Several factors contribute to their hefty price tags. First, the craftsmanship that goes into each piece cannot be stressed enough. Each piece is unique and no two are ever the same because they are all made by hand. The precise stitching and attention to detail is something mass-produced bags simply cannot match.
As Hermès Pierre-Alexis Dumas said in CBS’ 60 Minutes, “We’re about craft. We’re not machines. And we are not compromising on the quality of the way we make the bags.”
Next, the premium materials. From Togo leather to exotic animal skins like crocodile and ostrich, only the finest and rarest materials are used. Not to mention the additional diamond pieces and hardware that also contribute to the bag’s astronomical prices.
Then there’s the limited production. How many Hermès Kelly and Birkin pieces are produced per year are kept under wraps, making an already expensive piece even more exclusive which—as you can guess—drives up prices even more. Since each piece is so limited, there are certain colors and materials whose prices are jacked up even further because of rarity.
