Rebirth of a Siargao Favorite in Poblacion

If you've been to Siargao, you probably know Alma Siargao, once the go-to spot for amazing Spanish food on the island. Sadly, this two-story bistro on General Luna Road had to shut down after Super Typhoon Odette hit in December 2021, leaving many loyal fans heartbroken.

Jackie and Carlo Lorenzana, the husband-and-wife founders of Nikkei Group of Restaurants, had the chance to visit the joint back in 2021 and meet its chef and owner, Luis Martinez. They were actually eyeing to bring the brand to Manila, but it wasn't quite the right time as there were internal changes happening within Alma itself.

Alma Siargao before and after it was ravaged by super typhoon Odette

The couple's friendship and partnership with Martinez led to the opening of the Spanish restaurant, Terraza Martinez, in Shangri-La the Fort, Manila in 2022.

But like any first venture, Alma Siargao, will always hold a special place in Martinez's heart. In fact, he and the Nikkei Group have been gearing up for its reopening this year when a second-floor space opened up in Poblacion, leading to the birth of Alma Poblacion. This new bar and restaurant captures its seaside origins, offering a relaxing beach vibe with wooden tables, chairs, and woven hanging lamps, reminiscent of a charming seaside cottage.

The interior of Alma Poblacion exudes a seaside cottage vibe. 

"Supposedly, we were aiming for just one Alma, and it was a blessing in disguise that we ended up having two—one in Siargao and one in Poblacion," shares Ms. Lorenzana. "We're also very grateful that we ended up having partners from the island as well. Everything fell into place; it's all just a matter of timing."

Alma Poblacion opened recently while Alma Siargao is scheduled to launch sometime in August.

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Finding Home in Siargao

Who is Alma, you might ask? Well, it's not a person's name. In Spanish, "alma" translates to "soul," embodying the spirit and essence of the brand.

Martinez, who hails from Valencia, Spain, shares that he has always had an interest in cooking since he was a young boy. Growing up in a family of good cooks, he spent a lot of time in the kitchen. "In my free time, I would get cookbooks, read a lot of recipes, and explore new ways of cooking. When I'm alone, I like to mix different ingredients to see how they taste."

Roasted Tomato Tartare and White Anchovies

His entrepreneurial drive was ignited in his early teens, when his father encouraged him to start selling paella at age 13.

But coming from a traditional family, his father urged him to pursue a "proper degree" instead of studying culinary arts. The patriarch told him that once he completed his studies, he could pursue whatever he wanted in life. Respecting his father's wishes, he obtained a degree in veterinary medicine, eventually opening a clinic in Valencia.

Blood Orange Margarita

Around seven years ago, Martinez and two of his best friends took a trip to Siargao. He enjoyed the said vacation so much that he began contemplating settling on the island.

"I promised myself that if I still felt this way after five, six months, or a year, I would make the decision to move. After a year, I was sure about my decision. That's why I moved here, and I've been here ever since," he recalls.

Wild Mushrooms Confit & Gruyere Cheese

Soulful Cooking

Martinez's initial plan was to build a hotel in Siargao, which took a couple of years to construct. Unfortunately, when it was finally completed, the Covid pandemic struck, halting the hotel's opening. "We had a restaurant intended to serve the hotel guests, but since we ran out of money, my partners and I instead decided to open a restaurant," he says.

He had no experience running a restaurant kitchen and lacked formal culinary training. "Everything that I'm doing, I'm doing with my soul," he says with a twinkle in his eye. "I cook the way I know how, aiming to provide a proper meal for people to enjoy with their friends and create memorable moments together."

Gorgonzola and Spinach Croquetas

Martinez leans toward simple ways of cooking. "I don't work with more than three or four ingredients," he says. And while Alma is a Spanish restaurant, Martinez clarifies that it's not a traditional one. He also likes to work cook with a lot of veggies, fish, and meat, adding that he's very fond of Mediterranean-style cooking.

One of his favorites in Alma Poblacion's menu is the Roasted Tomato Tartare and White Anchovies. Aside from being very light and refreshing, the dish offers unexpected flavors that you wouldn't typically associate with a tomato, says the Spanish chef.

Beef Ribs & Wild Mushrooms Paella

He highly recommends the Gorgonzola and Spinach Croquetas, served with caramelized onions cooked in red wine, and the Black Tempura Barramundi, a squid ink tempura served with piquillo sauce and garlic muslin. He is also very proud of their Beef Ribs and Wild Mushrooms Paella, which deliciously combines the flavors of Filipino and Spanish cultures.

Among their desserts, the Roasted Caramelized Pumpkin, featuring wild honey and cinnamon ice cream, has a special significance for him as it's a local dessert in his hometown of Valencia. "It's very special to me as it reminds me of home," he says.

Roasted Caramelized Pumpkin

We also asked Lorenzana about her favorites. She highly recommends the Roasted Smoked Duck Breast, which features slices of duck breast, capers, cherry tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil demi-sauce, and tuna mayonnaise. A must-try among their pasta dishes is the Black Anchovies Butter Fresh Tagliatelle, bursting with the flavors of black olives, crispy capers, garlic confit, and juicy cherry tomatoes.

For those who prefer something light and refreshing, try the Wild Mushrooms Confit & Gruyere Cheese, drizzled with mery sauce and topped with crispy fried peanuts.

With a menu that celebrates both tradition and innovation, Martinez invites diners to experience a slice of his Valencian roots enriched by his time in Siargao. Martinez puts it succinctly: "Whether you're a long-time fan or a newcomer, Alma—whether in Siargao or Poblacion—is your little Spanish getaway from the hustle and bustle."