Chef Chele Gonzalez Looks to His Hometown For Inspiration in His New Restaurant

Any conversation about contemporary Spanish cuisine in the Philippines will invariably always include Chef Jose Luis Gonzalez, whom most of Manila fondly call by his nickname Chele. Over the last few years, Gonzalez has made his mark in the country’s culinary scene, with a string of restaurant ventures that stretches from Manila to Boracay, each one more intriguing and satisfying than the last. 

Cantabria is at the Westin Manila

Photo by Westin Manila.

The chef’s latest concept is arguably his most personal and the one closest to his heart. Cantabria at the top level of the Westin Manila in the heart of Ortigas Center in Mandaluyong is named after the Gonzalez’s hometown in the northern coast of Spain. While many of his previous restaurants draw on Gonzalez’s extensive experience in kitchens all around the world, Cantabria is a direct reflection of the culinary treasures of the region, and the food that he ate during his formative years.

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“Cantabria is where I grew up,” he said during a special sneak preview of the restaurant two days before it officially opened to the public last month. With sweeping views of the Ortigas business district, the restaurant is tastefully decorated in warm tones and elegant lighting fixtures. Customers walk into the bar first, placed along one side of the rectangular space, before making their way to the main dining space. A panoramic photograph of Cantabria itself hangs over one wall, a virtual welcome later supplemented by the offerings on the plate. 

Chef Chele Gonzalez and Chef Ivan Saiz Sordo both hail from the region of Cantabria

Photo by Westin Manila.

Tapas start off the meal, natch. Gonzalez is a bit more playful and adventurous with his appetizers: there’s Ravioli de Carne Guisado con Espuma de Parmesano, or braised beef and porcini ravioli with parmesan espuma and basil oil; Solmillo Iberico “Sando” Sandwich or deep fried pork tenderloin sandwich with tonkatsu sauce and caviar; and Chili Crab Croquetas con Mayonesa de Lima, or creamy chili crab croquettes with lime mayonnaise. They may not exactly be dishes with roots in the chef’s hometown, but they get the job done, which is to fire up the palate ahead of the main courses.

Rodaballo a la Parilla (Grilled Whole Wild Turbot)

Photo by Westin Manila.

As Cantabria is a coastal region facing the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic Ocean, seafood is a primary component of the residents. Highlights are a dazzling Ostra dela Casa—oysters with green apple, chives, and sherry mignonette—and Tiradito de Pargo, which is snapper drenched in avocado and lime salsa surrounded by thinly cut slices of radish.

Arroz Negro de Viera y Chipiron (Black ink creamy rice with grilled scallops, baby squid and herb aioli)

Photo by Westin Manila.

Gonzalez and Cantabria’s Chef de Cuisine Ivan Saiz Sordo paraded the highlight of the meal—grilled wild turbot, or Rodaballo a la Parilla in the menu—to diners before carving out the steaming white meat and serving it. The fish is a “treasure” from the waters of the Cantabria region, Gonzalez said, and so it’s no surprise that he and his team cook it to perfection—tender, succulent and with subtle flavors that both stimulate and satiate the palate.

Gonzalez admits that he initially did not intend to offer a paella dish at Cantabria, but there’s a disconcerting expectation that a Spanish restaurant in Manila must carry the quintessential Spanish rice dish, and so he obliged with Arroz Negro de Viera y Chipiron, studded with scallops, baby squid, and herb aioli. A spoonful of this together with the fish undoubtedly constitutes the full Cantabria experience.

Presa Iberico con Patatas y Mojos (Grilled pork Iberico steak, fried marble potatoes, green and red mojos sauces)

Photo by Westin Manila.

Meat lovers aren’t left out. There’s Presa Iberico con Patatas y Mojos—Iberico pork with a side of delicately prepared potatoes dipped in a duo of sauces. If you weren’t feeling full yet with all of the seafood, the meat is guaranteed to solve that dilemma.

Of course, there’s always room for dessert, and the restaurant offers two winners: Sobao Pasiego, a cheesecake served with cheese ice cream and berries coulis; and the Toffee, Cacao, Avellana y Café, which combines hazelnut, caramel, and chocolate.

Sobao Pasiego

Photo by Westin Manila.

Spain is a must-stop for any food lover, and the Cantabria region in the north offers its own culinary delights comparable to other, more well-known areas of the country. The new restaurant that bears its name, from current Manila resident Chele Gonzalez offers travelers a sampling of these flavors minus the prohibitive cost of actually hopping on a plane and flying there themselves. The restaurant offers yet another piece of Gonzalez’s mind and heart, and his fans who have followed his career all these years will not be disappointed.  

Cantabria by Chef Chele Gonzalez is located at Westin Manila, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City