Soul of Greece in Silang: Embracing Slow Food at Elaia by Cyma
Amidst the rush of instant gratification and fast-faced living, Cyma Group founder Chef Robby Goco is embracing the art of slow living and the pleasures of home cooking with his new Greek restaurant in Silang, Cavite called Elaia by Cyma.
"I’m going low and slow," he tells Esquire Philippines during the launch. This culinary philosophy focuses on whole, unprocessed ingredients, like vegetables and whole cuts of meat, cooked over extended periods at gentle heat, utilizing techniques such as simmering, braising, baking, and roasting.
Elaia by Cyma in Silang, Cavite is only five minutes away from Tagaytay.
With two successful Greek restaurants tucked under his belt, one would wonder why the seasoned chef decided to put up another one in this part of Cavite. According to Goco, Cyma highlights traditional city cuisine of Greece, while Souv! by Cyma presents a more progressive take on Greek flavors.
Elaia, his newest venture, takes its cue from Northern Greece's culinary traditions and its age-old practices for longevity and wellness. “Back in year 2000 when I went there, they were cooking everything in extra virgin olive oil. It's as if there's a Greek grandmother in the kitchen cooking all these super healthy and super good dishes,” he remembers. This was the inspiration for the name of the restaurant, Elaia (pronounced Eh-le-yah), which means olive in Greek.
Interior of Elaia by Cyma
“There's a saying, 'Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food,' yet we live in a world where processed food is becoming more like poison to us. That's the reason I’m doing this,” Goco says seriously.
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"It's as if there's a Greek grandmother in the kitchen cooking all these 'low and slow' dishes,” Chef Robby Goco describes his new Greek restaurant, Elaia by Cyma.
From Greece to Silang
Since Elaia showcases the cuisine of the northern, upland regions of Greece, they opted to open the restaurant in Silang, which is the closest mountainous area to Manila with cool weather. "It's only five minutes away from Tagaytay. It's also closer to the source of the ingredients we're using. So, even our salads and all our vegetables are sourced within a five-kilometer radius,” Goco offers, stressing the importance of using quality ingredients in Greek cuisine.
Greek Panzanella, their version of Dakos, which is voted the best salad by Taste Atlas
“[With Greek salad] you can't just use any tomato from the market for your salad. You have to get the reddest, sweetest tomato you can get your hands on. You have to get arugula and cucumber that are super hard to get. Looking for quality ingredients is already 80 percent of the job,” he adds.
Elaia by Cyma's dip sampler featuring tsatziki, tirokafteri, melitzanosalata, and hummus is the perfect starter.
Goco thinks Greek cuisine is close to the hearts of Filipinos as the two culinary traditions share surprising similarities. “The Greeks like everything with lemon, we like everything with calamansi. They have Melitzanosalata, the eggplant dip. We have the grilled eggplant salad here,” he says. “They like everything na parang nagmamantika. Ang kaibahan lang, sa atin, taba ng baboy, sa kanila olive oil. Sa atin, nilalagay natin sa kanin ang oil. Sila, they wipe it with bread. They like their seafood sour. They have avgolemono, we have sinigang.”
Chef Robby Goco takes pride in their Pork Kotsi.
Low and slow
Goco does make the trip to Silang a rewarding culinary journey. He's thrilled for diners to experience their "low and slow" creations, including the melt-in-your-mouth pork kotsi, the hearty lamb and octopus stews, and Greek Panzanella, their take on the world-famous dakos.
Grilled Pork Belly with fries on the side
He also recommends the Lamb Loin Al Ajillo, which is part of their Lambassador Series. “This is not from Greece, this is our own creation, and a personal favorite of ours,” he says with pride.
Their Seafood Elaia is one of the finest aglio olio we've ever tasted.
Each cocktail is likewise infused with olives, adding a rich and savory depth of flavor. A must try is the The Elaia, a handcrafted crafted cocktail featuring olive-infused rum, tamarind, lime, sugar, milk, and Greek yogurt, creating a perfect balance of tangy, creamy, and smooth flavors.
They serve Ekmek, an indulgent Greek tiramisu with Kataifi, semolina custard and whipped cream.
Goco enhances Elaia's dining experience even more by meticulously sourcing and customizing even the most basic elements. Their salt, for instance, was exclusively made for the restaurant by the salt farmers from Pangasinan, while their pepper is sourced from Alfonso, Cavite. They also make their own tomato jam and have a dairy company produce a farmer’s cheese that is almost similar to halloumi (a semi-hard, salty cheese that originated in Cyprus). This attention to detail, using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients, highlights his commitment to providing a unique and exceptional culinary experience.
From refreshing fresh fruit coolers to expertly crafted classics, Elaia by Cyma offers a cocktail for every taste.
In Elaia, Goco invites diners to rediscover the timeless connection between food and wellness, a culinary journey rooted in the heart of Northern Greece and nurtured in the cool uplands of Silang.
Elaia by Cyma is open daily from Monday to Thursday from 11 AM to 8 PM, and Friday to Sunday from 11 AM to 9 PM. Reservations are highly recommended. You may contact 09171637287.
