Dr. Wine Goes Beyond the Spirits and Delivers on Cozy French Fare

We thought it was just a pipe dream to find an accessible, honest-to-goodness restaurant in Metro Manila that could satisfy our craving for mouthwatering French food. It turns out we didn’t have to look far. Dr. Wine in Poblacion, Makati offers exactly the kind of unpretentious, no-nonsense French cuisine we’d been longing for.

The quaint wine bar in Poblacion first became known as an after-hours party spot for drinking, endless charcuterie boards, and chicken liver mousse. It has been a popular spot for precisely this understated atmosphere.

But beyond all this, we didn’t expect to be impressed by what they’ve been silently whipping up in a kitchen staffed by young chefs from France and Spain.

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A standout from the dishes we tried was the Agneau de 7 Heures (7 hours), an extremely tender, seven-hour slow-cooked Australian lamb shoulder with sweet potato purée, French beans, garlic confit, and lemon zest.

This dish is hard to get right because of the meticulous quality control that goes into consistently producing the chef’s slow-cooked lamb.

 Agneau De 7 Heaures

“I think it’s all about executing the right technique. We cook the lamb twice or three times a week so we can keep it for a few days,” Dr. Wine Executive Chef Romain Escande told Esquire Philippines. “We cook it then we shape it, we chill it, we finish the sauce then season it. That’s what we use to reheat the meat and create that glaze on top or braising.”

After Escande’s arrival in 2022, he made it a point to introduce compelling signature dishes to the restaurant’s already extensive French menu. And if there’s anyone fit for the job, it's Romain, who is a native of Toulouse, France. He honed his culinary skills at the prestigious Lycée Hôtelier de Toulouse.

Dr. Wine Executive Chef Romain Escande 

He says there’s one French dish you have to get right at a French restaurant: the fabled staple, foie gras.

“I come from the region where foie gras is really known, and it’s deeply embedded in our culture,” he said. “It’s like when you go to Tagaytay, people will tell you to order bulalo, right? Foie gras is like that for us.”

We will also sing praises for the incredible octopus pasta Ragoût de Poulpe with a deep tomato reduction all delivered via a paccheri pasta. This is another dish that is a must-try if you want the rustic flavors France is known for.

Ragoût de Poulpe

Dr. Wine set up shop in 2017 and aimed to provide accessible, warm, and cozy drinking options and classic French food. But the establishment has since aimed to be much more than that—more than just a glass of wine, and more than simple meals.

We just found a new reason to keep coming back to this Poblacion staple—its warm, comforting French food and bold yet familiar wine offerings that keep us coming back for more. And if you find yourself in BGC, Dr. Wine's also got you covered with a branch in that other party town in Metro Manila.

“I don’t want to compare Dr. Wine to other restaurants,” said Escande. “I just know that we do our stuff. We try to do the best that we can and we always challenge ourselves to create the best experience.”