KalanPh's Rise as Iloilo's Chicken Sandwich King
ILLUSTRATION: Igi Talao
I swore to myself that on my next trip to Iloilo, I wouldn't come home without having a chicken sandwich from KalanPh. For some reason, I can't get it out of my head and have been craving it since my last visit there in 2022.
So, imagine my elation when, during a recent press junket, Chef Rafael "Tibong" Jardeleza, the acclaimed author of the National Book Award-winner "Flavors of Iloilo," treated my media peers and me to a delightful meal at KalanPh.
On a bustling Sunday afternoon, we found the garage-turned-diner packed with patrons. KalanPh's 27-year-old founder, Karl Jason Hibionada, alongside his brother, were busy manning the kitchen, while their father played the roles of both host and busser.
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What makes KalanPh's chicken sandwich so special? Jardeleza, who's a huge fan of Hibionada's creation, puts it succinctly: "It's crunchy, it's juicy, it's flavorful. It's everything a chicken sandwich should be. Each bite leaves you craving for more," he says.
Hibionada fondly remembers the remark from Don Baldosano, chef of the modern Filipino restaurant Linamnam. "Sabi niya it's masarap, juicy, crispy, well-balanced ang flavors kahit simple ingredients lang," the aspiring chef-restaurateur recalls. Hibionada's culinary prowess also impressed bestselling cookbook author Chef Tatung Sarthou, who gave his chicken sandwich a thumbs-up.
Like numerous enterprises, KalanPh emerged during the pandemic. Hibionada, who holds a degree in Hospitality Management and formerly worked in the kitchen of Richmonde Hotel Iloilo, made the difficult decision to resign amidst the pandemic. This choice was driven by the need to be with his mother, who was battling cancer at the time.
KalanPh founder Karl Jason Hibionada (right) mans the kitchen.Â
Starting with just P2,000 as his initial capital, he began selling Filipino favorites such as sisig, chicken inasal, and adobo online. He also tried selling bibingka. However, everything took a turn when, one day, while browsing through Facebook, he came across a YouTube video by American chef, cookbook author, and food blogger Joshua Weissman.
The prospect of a chicken sandwich intrigued him. "Parang masarap ang chicken sandwich," he thought to himself. Noticing that chicken sandwiches were a rarity in Iloilo, he saw potential for a solid business idea. But he was adamant to sell any sandwich unless he bakes his own buns—a necessity in a place where quality buns were scarce. Thus, he ventured into baking his own.
Hibionada began offering his chicken sandwiches at pop-up events. "Nakakabenta kami ng 500 sandwiches sa loob ng tatlong araw," he recounts. Encouraged by the enthusiastic response from customers, he saw it as a sign to open a modest diner in his aunt's garage.
What are the secrets to a great chicken sandwich?
Hibionada says he uses chicken leg quarters, which are richer, more flavorful and succulent than white meat due to its higher fat content. This robust flavor profile adds depth and savoriness to a chicken sandwich, making it more delectable. Dark meat is also naturally more moist and tender.
Brining the meat overnight tenderizes it and enriches the flavor, Hibionada notes. Achieving the perfect batter is a matter of balancing high-quality flour with cornstarch. "Hindi pwedeng harina lang kasi matigas. Kung corn starch lang hindi naman kakapit," he says. To this mix, he also incorporates a blend of secret spices for an extra flavor kick.
KalanPh's Buffalo and Ranch Chicken Sandwich
Double frying the chicken is key to achieving that juicy inside and crunchy exterior. "We use two fryers," Hibionada explains. "The first is for setting the flour coating. Then we move it to the second fryer, set at a higher temperature, where it gets that golden-brown finish." For the sandwich dressing, he uses mayo with secret spices, to complement the flavors.
KalanPh's Classic Chicken Sandwich is already a winner in my book. It's the go-to choice for those who appreciate the simplicity and deliciousness of a chicken sandwich. But Hibionada also highly recommends giving their Buffalo & Ranch variant a try. This option elevates the experience with its tangy buffalo sauce, creamy ranch dressing, crisp lettuce, and tangy pickles. Also on the menu are a variety of beef burgers, pasta, rice meals, and chicken wings.
The young entrepreneur has plans to expand his business but expresses reluctance to make it available for franchising. "Itong KalanPh ang ang bumuhay sa pamilya namin noong pandemic. So I wish to keep it within the family," he says. He also dreams of eventually establishing his own restaurant, bakery, and coffee shop.
