At This New Izakaya, the Menu Is Eclectic and Satisfying

The owners of the new Izakaya Geronimo in Bonifacio Global City certainly don’t do things small-scale. To get an idea of their newest restaurant, which officially opens to the public this week, look to their first venture: the extremely swanky (and pricey) Wagyu Studio, also in BGC. 

“It’s probably the most expensive restaurant in the country today,” co-owner Lui Clavano says about the fancy outlet that spotlights premium Wagyu beef. It was a big gamble for the proprietors, who opened Wagyu Studio in the midst of the pandemic in October 2020. But it looks like that gamble paid off. Today the restaurant attracts top-tier clientele—“the top one percent,” as Clavano puts it—who swear by the quality of the food and the premium atmosphere.

Izakaya Geronimo is located in the ground floor of the Asian Century Tower in Bonifacio Global City

Photo by Izakaya Geronimo.

Clavano and his cohorts are looking to replicate the success of Wagyu Studio with Izakaya Geronimo, which, as the name suggests, offers no-nonsense Japanese fare in an elevated, ultra-modern setting. Don’t go looking for red paper lanterns, bamboo mats, or stylized Kanji characters on the walls; this restaurant goes for warm woods, concrete, and polished steel. There’s an open kitchen surrounded by a dining counter, which might be typical in traditional Japanese izakayas, but the design leans more toward contemporary Western aesthetic rather than downtown Tokyo or Kyoto.

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Clearly the owners wanted to challenge notions of what an izakaya in 21st century Manila looks like. And that goes with the food, too, to some extent.

An izakaya, in case you need a refresher, is a Japanese restaurant that serves small plates that typically goes well with spirits. And so the idea is to offer the best of what we love about the cuisine of Japan and give it a contemporary spin. Clavano says it was a life-changing trip to Japan a few years ago that planted the seeds of what would eventually become Izakaya Geronimo.

A selection of Temaki 

Photo by Izakaya Geronimo.

Tasked to execute the concept are Yoji Kitayama and Erik Idos. Kitayama is no stranger to the group, being the beating heart that brought Wagyu Studio to life. Along with the owners, which include Clavano and his brother LA, as well as a few others, Kitayama oversaw the concept for the new venture and worked with Filipino-American chef Idos, who’s spent time cooking in some of the best kitchens in the world, to develop the menu. 

The menu itself, offers fare typical izakaya fare—yakitori, sushi and sashimi, fried stuff, and rice toppings. At a special preview last week, the restaurant picked out a few standouts to select guests, starting with a couple of “snacks”: Yuzu Burrata and Crispy Shirauo. The Italian cheese is a bit unexpected as a starter, but drizzled with yuzu and mixed with a white miso dressing, any apprehensions goes out the window. It’s the same with the addictive “fish chips.” They should consider mass-producing it and selling it at grocery stores.

Filey-o-fish Sando

Photo by Izakaya Geronimo.

In place of traditional sashimi, a Toro Wasabi Salsa course was served. The fresh fish is drenched in yuzu miso for a zing of flavor.

For the Temaki course, there were two options: a Toro Uni Caviar and a regular Spicy Tuna. Both are adequate and should satiate any cravings for sushi rolls.

A highlight of the meal is the “sando,” or the Japanese sandwich. In this case, the chefs presented their version of the fast-food classic filet-o-fish, with cod roe (mentaiko) and takana (Japanese red mustard). The fish is succulent on the inside and has just the right level of crisp on the outside. Choose this if you’re looking for a (slightly) healthier alternative to traditional burgers.

Toro Wasabi Salsa

Photo by Izakaya Geronimo.

The open kitchen layout of Izakaya Geronimo

Photo by Izakaya Geronimo.

Finally, the meat course is a lamb chop smothered in gochujang. It’s a bit out of left field—lamb in Korean spicy sauce?—but the meat is perfectly cooked and that’s all that matters. 

The space is huge and includes a lounge area where diners can move for after-dinner drinks, and special mention must be given to the acoustics inside, where even piped-in music doesn’t drown out conversation between guests. Clearly, Izakaya Geronimo—which is so-named because the owners wanted to capture that sense of adventure and discovery associated with exceptionally fine food—is taking a big swing, but given the track record of its owners, we’re no longer surprised.