A Nostalgic Walk Down Taiwan's Jiufen Old Street

Taiwan is one of the most exciting Asian destinations for curious and thrill-seeking travelers. The island boasts a rich history and vibrant culture, stunning natural scenery, an amazing variety of tasty delicacies, and bustling shopping districts great for finding unique souvenirs and artisanal goods.

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If you're including New Taipei City—which is conveniently close to the capital city of Taipei—in your itinerary, there is an iconic tourist spot there that offers all the above-mentioned experiences: Jiufen Old Street.

From the Jiufen Old Street bus stop, you can see Keelung Mountain and the pavilion.

This writer had the chance to tour this charming old street in a recent familiarization tour courtesy of the Taiwan Tourism Administration (TAA). The town of Jiufen is nestled in Ruifang District, which features a rich terrain of mountains, rivers, and coastlines, ideal for hikers, nature lovers, and photography enthusiasts.

To reach Jiufen Old Street, you have two options: You can either climb several flights of stairs, akin to visiting religious grottoes, or, if you have bad knees or are traveling with young children, ask your driver to drop you off at the top of Old Street.

Jiufen's journey

Jiufen's economy was initially driven by camphor harvesting and processing. The town had 90 stoves organized into nine clusters of ten stoves each. This inspired the name "Jiufen," which literally means "nine units" or "nine sections."

The town eventually became famous for its gold mines during the Japanese colonial era (1895-1945). During this period, the town saw significant infrastructure development. Many of the architectural styles and cultural influences from that period exist until today.

The old street is lined with shops that sell everything from food and drinks, to various souvenir items. 

The aftermath of World War II saw Jiufen fall into hard times as the once-thriving gold mining industry dwindled. Things only took a dramatic turn again in the '80s when Jiufen began to attract tourists and filmmakers, breathing new life into this enchanting town.

In 1989, Jiufen gained international prominence as it became the setting of the war-drama movie A City of Sadness, directed by Hou Hsiao-Hsien. The film won the Golden Lion Award at the 1989 Venice Film Festival, bringing the town back into the consciousness of travelers.

The narrow alleyways, red lanterns, and quaint tea houses often draw comparisons to scenes from the animated movie Spirited Away.

It's also widely believed to be the inspiration for the setting of Japanese filmmaker Hayao Miyazaki's acclaimed animated film, Spirited Away, released in 2001. The narrow alleyways, red lanterns, and quaint tea houses often draw comparisons to scenes from the movie.

You can find a variety of local Taiwanese snacks along the alleyway.

A Day in Jiufen

Navigating the old street today, you'll find hardworking vendors left and right selling traditional Taiwanese snacks and specialties—from taro balls and sweet potato balls, to gua bao, sausages, bubble tea, peanut ice cream rolls, and even exotic delicacies like stinky tofu. Numerous shops offer souvenirs items, handmade crafts, clothes, accessories, and unique items related to Taiwanese culture.

Some options for adventurous eaters.

Jiufen is famous for its traditional tea houses, some of which date back to the gold mining era. These establishments offer an authentic taste of Taiwanese tea culture, coupled with stunning views of the mountains and the sea.

The area also has cultural spots like Shengping Theater, an old cinema showing films from the Japanese colonial period, and quaint temples. The elevated position of Jiufen offers breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean and surrounding hills, making it a perfect spot for photography.

Whether you're a history buff, a foodie, a nature lover, or simply someone seeking a unique and memorable adventure, Jiufen offers something for everyone. It's a timeless treasure that deserves a spot on every traveler's bucket list. 

Jiufen Old Street is accessible from Taipei City by bus or train.