Pancit with Tendon and Spaghetti with Tamarillo Ketchup: Asamin is Not Your Typical Panciteria
By now, diners should already have an idea how Stephan Duhesme treats Filipino flavors, given what he has been serving at Metiz, Automat and multiple collaborations here and abroad. Yet no matter how much one tries to describe and encapsulate his signature style through words, it will still fall short compared to the actual length and breadth of his capabilities. Believe me. I’ve tried—and failed.
That’s why when he mentioned weeks before that he is opening a panciteria at the Balmori Suites in Rockwell for a limited time only, I didn’t even dare dream of the stuff he might possibly come up with because I know it would turn out to be a lot more whimsical and impressive than what my mind can imagine. It was validated when Asamin opened on Chinese New Year.
Asamin at Balmori Suites, Rockwell
“We wanted something that didn’t compete with anything in Rockwell,” he tells Esquire Philippines. “We took this into account because we really wanted to offer something new. We also wanted something radically different from Metiz or Automat. It’s a different space and we had to adapt to the kitchen so we thought of something more casual where we could still retain the core principle of Metiz—exploring facets of Filipino cuisine. The panciteria makes it less daunting for us and the clientele. The idea is to have fun.”
Lola Lina's Sotanghon
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Duhesme also took into consideration how pasta and ramen joints are so popular right now. He thought, “why not explore what panciteria in this day and age could look like?” The chef adds, “Our goal is not to make a statement but rather open up discussions and raise curiosity—a key component of what Metiz is all about.”
Leo's Monay
Bok-bok Manok
To compose the short menu, he relied on his Filipino noodle experiences as well as the pancits his formidable staff grew up eating. With heirloom recipes, modern trattorias and nostalgic memories as foundation and inspiration, the team added original twists to their dishes and the sides that go well with them.
Asamin's Short Menu
There are five kinds of noodle numbers in the menu: the Espaghetti Malabon with tamarillo ketchup, gouda cheese and the orange-hued sauce the dish is recognized for; the Batangueño Guisado flavored with chicken liver, lechon kawali, and housemade miki; and the lone soupy variant, the Beef Mami Deluxe, which is made indulgent with the addition of tendon.
Pancit Guisado
Ubod a la Carlo
Completing the ensemble are Stephan’s favorites: the Pancit Sawsaw, which is their take on the tsukemen but with rich Filipino flavors; and Lola Lina’s Sotanghon, based on the recipe of chef Kevin Soliven's grandmother.
“I love [the sotanghon] because it’s simple and pure,” he says. “It’s almost a reminder of simpler times where you can’t hide behind anything. It’s all about the ingredients. We sourced young green garlic which has a delicate flavor and pairs extraordinarily well with the sweetness of the shrimp. Cured egg yolks are added for a bit more saltiness. Those were the only things we added to his lola’s recipe. It was so good as it is.
Espaghetti Malabon
Longganisa ni Ser Raph
“I actually like most of the things on the menu to varying degrees,” he adds. “It just depends on my mood for the day. Hopefully, a sentiment I’ll share with our friends and patrons.”
Completing the meal are a bunch of sides, including Leo’s warm monay served with bagoong butter, kikiam from Malabon with homemade Manong sauce, and a lumpiang ubod made with sourdough wrapper and an anchovy dressing. There are hearty mains such as crispy marinated fried chicken with house gravy, salmon with leek sauce and tausi, and lechon kawali with Metiz liver sauce; and desserts—one akin to a halo-halo with banana butterscotch ice cream and nilupak, and another an ode to Aling Tessie Punzalan’s trianggulo Valencia, which is a caramel-encased fried lumpia stuffed with biko and served with keso ice cream.
Triangolo a la kieks
Of Duhesme’s three brands, Asamin is perhaps the most familiar when it comes to the dishes as the iterations and flavor combinations aren’t as left field as the others. Yet, he and his team still manage to surprise and impress, which is perfectly in line with what Metiz and Automat have become known to do.
Asamin, located at the Balmori Suites in Rockwell, is open for weeknight dinners, and lunch as well on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. To reserve, contact @metizresto on Instagram and/or +63917-7004109.
