Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez Welcomes New Spanish Chef de Cuisine

It’s been over a year ago when Spanish-born chef Chele Gonzalez launched Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez at The Westin Manila. It’s designed to be an elevated Spanish dining concept, with flavors inspired by his hometown of Cantabria. Its menu consists of one-of-a-kind seafood creations and innovative tapas to succulent comfort meats and time-honored Spanish favorites. 

That continues to be the restaurant’s core identity and enduring appeal. It's also why the culinary maestro chose someone who understands his roots and whom he can trust to collaborate with.

Chef Chele Gonzalez and Chef Álvaro Romero-abreu Raya

At a recent dinner, Chef Chele proudly introduced to members of the media Cantabria’s new Chef de Cuisine, Álvaro Romero-abreu Raya, who hails from Cadíz, a province in Southern Spain. He had experience working in several Michelin-starred restaurants, including a stint on the Research and Development team of Mugaritz, a fine dining restaurant in northern Spain, acclaimed with two Michelin stars.  

Chef Álvaro, who now takes the helm of Cantabria’s kitchen, collaborates closely with Chef Chele in showcasing progressive Spanish cuisine and unique flavors unknown to many. Chef Álvaro’s expertise in traditional Spanish dishes and thoughtful approach to innovating classics ensure Chef Chele's meticulously crafted menu and high standards are impeccably executed, as was evident during our visit. 

 Tosta de Ensaladilla de Gambas

A Taste of Spain 

The Ostra Manzana y Lima-Limon set the stage for the dinner, delivering a subtle yet vibrant taste of the ocean. We agree with Chef Chele; it’s a refreshing respite from that night’s heavy traffic. The oyster, nestled in its shell, was transformed by a cloud of tart apple foam and a zingy lemon-lime sorbet.  

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Next, a nostalgic nod to Spanish tradition was served in the form of Tosta de Ensaladilla de Gambas. The mashed potatoes and finely diced carrots are perfectly complemented by the succulence of tiger prawns on a crisp toast.  

Tartaleta de Ikura y Wagyu

Further whetting our appetite are the Tartaleta de Ikura y Wagyu, featuring rich, melt-in-your-mouth wagyu tartar and glistening pearls of ikura, and the Tortilla Crujiente, a crisp panipuri shell that holds an unexpected burst of sweet, caramelized onion and a light, airy egg foam.

Tortilla Crujiente

The transition to the Entrantes was seamless, with the Tartar de Salmon con Vieras y Gazpachuelo de Jalapeños y Coco. Fresh salmon tartar, tender and bright, was juxtaposed with scallops, their edges delicately torched to release a subtle sweetness. This vibrant pairing swam in a bold emulsion of sour jalapeño and coconut cream, which speaks of the chef's fearless blending of global influences with Spanish roots. 

Tartar de Salmon con Vieras y Gazpachuelo de Jalapeños y Coco

This was followed by the Guiso de Maganos en Su Tinta con Patatas en Texturas—baby squid, tender and rich with its own ink, was served in a velvety, savory stew. Potatoes added layers of texture, transforming the traditional dish into a modern experience.  

Rodaballo a la Brasa

The star of the evening, in my opinion, was the Rodaballo a la Brasa—a magnificent grilled turbot, sweet from the kiss of the flames, served with a vibrant salad of green herbs. The fish, according to Chef Gonzalez, was sourced from Cantabria.  

Jarrete de Ternera

But who could resist the Jarrete de Ternera? It’s slow-cooked veal shank, so tender it readily falls off the bone when gently pulled apart, bathed in a flavorful demi-glace. The meat is complemented by mashed potatoes and other vegetables.  

Sobao Pasiego 

The evening concluded with a sweet finale. The Sobao Pasiego was an ode to Cantabria itself—a delicate, buttery cake, served with cheese ice cream and a hint of berry coulis; and the Chocolate, Calabaza y Pistacho—a hot chocolate soufflé, paired with a sweet, earthy calabaza-vanilla toffee, and the nutty crunch of pistachio ice cream. 

Cantabria by Chef Gonzalez is located at the top floor of The Westin Manila.

Guests can look forward to tasting the evolution of Spanish cuisine through the set menu, which is now a staple offering in Cantabria. 

“We have a lot of experiences to offer in different ways,” says Chef Álvaro. “There’s something for everyone. We’ve created a menu that can make people feel like they’re staying in Spain without staying in Spain. I feel that, too. I feel like I’m at home.” 

Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez is located at the top floor of The Westin Manila in Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City