This Speakeasy in Manila Is a Time Machine to Old Shanghai

Malate in Manila is known for its bars with flashing neon lights and a nightlife that's all about partying until you drop. But somewhere near the boulevard is an elegant speakeasy that looks like something out of a Wong Kar Wai movie where mixing drinks is an art. This is Ruby Wong's Godown, a hidden bar in the basement of Admiral Hotel at the corner of Roxas Boulevard and Aldecoa Street.

A Speakeasy That Brings You to Old Shanghai

Technically, "speakeasy" is defined as a place where alcoholic beverages are illegally sold, such as during Prohibition (1920-1933) in the U.S. Some say the word came from "speak-softly-shops," which were common in the 19th century in England and Ireland. Drinking and selling alcohol isn't illegal now (except when the government says so, such as during elections), but hidden bars use the term to add to the exciting secrecy that they offer.

Ruby Wong's Godown, which labels itself as a "speakeasy," uses this to its advantage; and even takes things further by actually hiding its premises behind a fake elevator, which is behind a fake bookshelf at the lobby of Admiral Hotel. There's also the option of going down a flight of stairs from the street-side entrance, which is less subtle, but still provides enough physical distance as guests travel back in time through the Old Shanghai-themed speakeasy.

After the secret entrance is a big wooden warehouse door that opens into a world of colorful paper lanterns on the ceiling, red knick-knacks, and yellow-tinted paper with calligraphy on the wall. You can choose the tables laid out on a huge red carpet or reserve one of the booths that make you feel that you're trapped in the 1930s. The setting matches Ruby Wong's Godown backstory, where Miss Ruby is supposedly a "good fixer of the sea" and a "collector of stories, recipes, and friends" with a mission to craft the best noodle dishes.

The Noodle Alley has an impressive menu of dumplings, dim sum, main dishes, and—of course—noodles. Dishes from the East are extended into their list of bar chows, from Steamed Bao to Salted Egg Yolk Prawn, which can be odd matches to cocktails, but the vibe just makes everything work.

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And then, there's Ruby Wong's Godown's drinks menu.

Ruby Wong's Godown takes pride in its well-crafted cocktails, each an artful mix of Oriental flavors and infusions, premium alcohol, and a heavy dose of spectacle—smoke included.

Fiery Dragon

One of their signatures is the Fiery Dragon (P500), which is Ruby Wong's Godown's version of the classic margarita. The base is a Mezcal Durango; and mixed in are bell pepper cordial, lime and grapefruit juice, and fire water tincture. Homemade sriracha salt is dabbed on the glass rim to add some spice. Finally, the theatrics: a cloud of smoke that's released from the glass dome enclosure. This complex mix gives the Fiery Dragon a spicy, smoky, grassy, and fruity taste.

Green Opium Heaven

Another Ruby Wong's Godown exclusive is the Green Opium Heaven (P800), which has a name that takes inspiration from high-class opium houses in Canton during the 1930s. But instead of the highly addictive narcotic that continues to plague the world, customers are given jasmine-infused Japanese gin that's mixed with gentian liqueur, Bianco vermouth, and homemade kaffir tincture pandan. This is Miss Ruby's take on the White Negroni, which is served in a palm-sized skull-head-shaped glass and a sage cigarette—that's not really a cigarette.

The Queen's Fashion

The drink that this Esquire Philippines writer can't get enough of was The Queen's Fashion (P600), which features butter corn-washed Sazerac rye with blossom syrup, some vanilla tincture, and a piece of apricot on the side. It's a drink served with a crystal-clear cube of ice. It doesn't have the same theatrics as the Fiery Dragon or the Green Opium Heaven, or even the odd-looking bubble-like grapefruit air sitting on top of the Quirk N' Squirt (P700), but it does have the elegance in its simplicity as Ruby Wong's version of the Old Fashioned.

Quirk N' Squirt

The rest of Ruby Wong's Godown signature cocktail list includes The Rising Sun (P1,000), which is a mix of Japanese alcohol—thus the name. It has Yuzu Gin, which uses Kameshizuku sweet potato shochu as a base; Roku, a distinct gin that combines Japanese botanicals like cherry blossoms, green tea, and more; and Yume Hibiki Umeshu, which is Japanese apricot wine. Added to the mix are blossom bitters, lime, and annatto oil.

Then, there's Ruby's Rehab (P500), which features Don Papa 7 Year Old Rum, homemade calamencello (in place of the usual limoncello), fresh lime, pandan, sarsaparilla foam, and lime jelly; Original Sin (P500), which is peach-infused Hennessy V.S, sherry falernum, pineapple gomme, Mediterranian tonic, peach-mango bites; Pawpaw Morning Wood (P600), which is made from Ketel One, lime cordial, and homemade papaya leather; and Flying Ganesh (P500) with blended malt scotch whisky called Monkey Shoulder, Roku, dragonfruit shrub, lime, bigallet thyme, and honey. Completing Miss Ruby's alcohol flavors from all over Asia is the Philippine style Bukayo Mon Amour (P500), which is latik-infused sailor jerry with lime, honey, px nectar, and sesame oil.

Ruby Wong's Godown is a place where time slows down. We'd already maxed out our food budget and had too much to drink, but the clock said it was only 10 p.m. or so. Guess that's what a combo of good food, great drinks, and cool conversations does.

Ruby Wong's Godown is at Admiral Hotel 2138 Roxas Boulevard, Malate, Manila. It is open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.