The image of fire persists in the history of Jeju, the southernmost province of South Korea. This region, particularly Jeju Island, is now a popular tourist destination and a visa-free haven for Philippine passport holders, visited for its temperate climate, picturesque beaches, and stunning natural scenery.
This beauty, however, is literally and historically forged in fire. The island itself is a landmass born of volcanic eruptions that began two million years ago. Fire would later become a harrowing symbol of the Jeju April 3rd Uprising and Massacre in the 1940s and '50s, when government counterinsurgency efforts resulted in whole villages being razed to the ground and innocent civilians being killed. Today, the island's natural wonders—from its unique basalt rocks and tuff rings (a.k.a. volcanic landforms)—stand alongside its memorial parks, with both serving as a testament to its past.
But how, exactly, was this majestic and tragic land of fire originally formed?
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The Fire of Creation
The Jeju Island we see today was shaped by four distinct stages of volcanic activity, complemented by the continuous weathering and erosion of its coastline. This geological process began with an initial underwater eruption approximately two million years ago, which created the Seoguipo Formation. This was followed by the formation of a large lava plateau and distinct peaks some 700,000 years ago, leading eventually to the birth of the island's central and highest point, Hallasan Mountain, about 100,000 years ago. The final stage involved lateral eruptions that formed the numerous smaller volcanic cones (oreums) scattered across the island some 25,000 years ago.
As an island born of fire, Jeju's present-day dramatic landscape boasts towering tuff cones rising out of the ocean, dark-colored lava walls, and a complex system of low-temperature lava caves. These unparalleled geological features are precisely why the UNESCO World Heritage Convention inscribed the Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes in 2007. The UNESCO World Heritage Site comprises three distinct components: the Geomunoreum lava tube system, the fortress-like Seongsan Ilchulbong Tuff Cone, and Mt. Hallasan.
Jeju Island is the only place where all four Internationally Designated Areas occur at the same location. Aside from a World Heritage Site title, it's also a Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO Global Geopark, and home to two Ramsar wetland sites (1100 Altitude Wetland and Muljangori-Oreaum Wetland). The island has four major ecosystems of biogeographic regions: alpine coniferous forest, temperate broadleaf forest, warm temperate evergreen lucidophyll forest, and temperate grassland, which host diverse flora and fauna, including up to 90 Jeju endemic plants, 28 of which are found on the summit of Mt. Hallasan.
These spectacular natural wonders are now some of Jeju's most celebrated and accessible attractions that can be visited via DIYÂ trips or day tour packages.
Handam Coast Trail
The Handam Coast Trail, also known as the Gwakgeum Olle Trail, is a 1.2-kilometer boardwalk that winds through cooled and hardened lava rocks on the west side of Jeju Island.
It makes for a good running or walking route, with the trendy northwestern town of Aewol featuring cool cafes and restaurants on one end and the family-friendly Gwakji Gwamul Beach on the other.
The Handam Coast Trail is in Gwakji-ri, Jeju-si, Jeju-do. It is open 24 hours. Admission is free.
Suwolbong Peak Geo Trail
Also found on the west is Suwolbong Peak Geo Trail, which is probably the best way to experience Jeju Island as a UNESCO Global Geopark. It allows visitors to closely observe ash layers on one side as well as black-colored hardened lava on the other. Find out how, 18,000 years ago, a hydromagmatic eruption—the interaction of rising hot magma and water—produced the Suwolbong Tuff Ring.
During the Pacific War, the Japanese army established military facilities at about 120 oreums on Jeju Island. Suwolbong, in particular, has several tunnels that store ammunition as well as suicide boats.
Think of it as a textbook on volcanology, except you're getting your steps in, taking photos for your social media, and reading bits of trivia that may or may not be of use during quiz nights. The trail's highest point is the Suwolbong Peak, which is a small oreum that's 77 meters above sea level. There you can find a small pavilion called Suwoljeong, which has front-row seats to a view of Chagwido, Songaksan Mountain, and Jukdo Island.
The Suwolbong Observatory on Suwolbong Peak
The Suwolbong Peak Geo Trail is in Noeulhaean-ro, Jeju-si, Jeju-do. It is open 24 hours. Admission is free.
Hwansangsup Forest Gotjawal Park
Given its geologic history, Jeju Island's forests are home to primeval ecosystems, which means they're diverse and densely packed with a variety of giant ferns, trees with massive and exposed roots, and moss-covered rocks. Think Jurassic Park. Of course, if we're strict about it, Jeju Island was formed during the Pleistocene Epoch (a.k.a. Ice Age) under the Cenozoic Era, which is millions of years after the Mesozoic Era's Jurassic Period.
Anyway, what's interesting about Jeju's forests is that they're formed on lumpy basalt, which are dark volcanic rocks formed from the rapid cooling of lava. What was once a hot, glowing liquid eventually turned into hard black rocks, from where diverse flora grew.
One of these is the Hwansangsup Forest Gotjawal Park, which is most famous as the filming location of BTS' The Most Beautiful Moment in Life album cover. There's a self-guided walking trail of 1.2 kilometers—just follow the arrows; and a guided walking trail of 600 meters.Â
Hwansangsup Forest Gotjawal Park is in Nokchabunjae-ro, Hangyeong-myeon, Jeju-si, Jeju-do. It is open from Monday to Saturday, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; and every Sunday, from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Admission fee (including a guided tour) is 5,000 won.
Cheonjeoyeon Falls
Cheonjeoyeon, a three-tier waterfall, is enriched by a folklore about seven nymphs who descended from the heavens at night to bathe in the pond. Because of this, it is believed that standing under the falls on the 15th day of the seventh lunar month can cure diseases. Swimming is now prohibited, however, for safety reasons. Still, it's calming to just be in awe of the sights. It was designated a Natural Monument in 1993 because of the rare plants found in the warm temperate forest surrounding the waterfalls.
The first waterfall, which is only 200 meters from the entrance, flows only after heavy rain. The second stop, which is 300 meters downstream, can be reached by rocky steps. The third waterfall is 500 meters from the second waterfall. Between the second and third is the Seonimgyo Bridge, which is about 128 meters long and 78 meters high. The iron bridge is decorated with the seven nymphs from the local myth.
Cheonjeoyeon Falls is in Cheonji-dong, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do. It is open daily from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Admission is 2,500 won.
