Jil Sander and Uniqlo's Tadashi Yanai on the +J Line, the Future, and More
The first time I heard about Uniqlo was through a story on Jil Sander's first collab collection for the retailer. This was the time of blogging, a time before Uniqlo ever set foot on our shores, and a time before collabs were a full-on thing. All I knew back then about Uniqlo was that it was making Jil Sander's modern and minimalist designs available at a much lower price point.
Much has happened since then. The Philippines now has its own Uniqlo flagship for one. And, Sander's Uniqlo line got a revival last year. Before we even got used to the idea, however, we got an announcement that the Uniqlo +J fall/winter 2021 collection would be the last—for now, hopefully. We don't get a lot of farewells in fashion, but a conversation between Sander and Tadashi Yanai, founder and president of Fast Retailing, seems like the closest thing.
Read on to learn how the +J collection has evolved through the years, and what the future holds for the designer and the retailer.
What has changed between the first chapter of +J (from 2009) and the second chapter (from 2020) and what has stayed the same?
Jil Sander (JS): First of all, Uniqlo grew almost tenfold and became a truly international company with stores all over the world. Uniqlo proved that it can shoulder the required output and keep its high standard. In 2009 already, Uniqlo had the know-how, the techniques, and the logistics to establish +J successfully, a line that is based on the highest quality, fabric research, and fine craftsmanship. When we reactivated +J, the collections grew accordingly.
It made me very happy to reach so many customers in all parts of the world and to achieve the +J mission of providing a modern global uniform, offering value, smart understatement, and carefully forged contemporary silhouettes. The Uniqlo team became even more professional over the years, from the beginning, it was extremely attentive and helpful in devising new ways of doing things. I feel a strong affinity to the Japanese culture and work ethics, to the love of quality and precision, the readiness to respond to demanding ideas, the urge to innovate, and the willingness to experiment and start from zero, if needed.
Tadashi Yanai (TY): As Ms. Sander pointed out, one major change has been Uniqlo's business scale. In 2009 we had stores in eight markets and by 2020 had expanded to 25 markets. I also believe that customer trust in the Uniqlo quality and service has changed for the better. The aspects that have stayed the same are Ms. Sander's passion for making clothes, commitment to quality, and keen sense of the times. Uniqlo has also maintained a stance since the beginning of doing everything possible to respond to customer feedback, and that has led to a focus on quality and service. I believe that the reason we have been able to maintain such a long-standing collaboration with Ms. Sander is due to the many points of overlap in our basic philosophies.
In the three seasons of the second chapter of the collaboration, what are the most memorable or favorite products?
JS: I don't really have favorites, but I am especially fond of the range of great coats we designed over the years, of their timeless modernity, their statement quality, and the democratic prices we were able to ask, due to Uniqlo market power.
TY: The modern updates made to down items left an impression on me. I was also struck by the variation and details of knitwear from Ms. Sander, and I purchased several items for myself. I expect that I will be wearing them often for many years to come.
Tell us what you think about each other as both of you are revolutionaries of the times.
JS: No doubt, Mr. Yanai is a visionary, a self-made man of the finest order who never stopped evolving, engaging in higher stakes and in studying and anticipating the needs and wishes of his contemporaries. I was very lucky to meet him and to find a sparring partner for the audacious concept of +J. As far as I can see, Mr. Yanai stayed the same faithful, conscientious man since his beginnings as an entrepreneur. He looks back on a stupendous success story, which must have been in his mind from early on, since he never wavered in his path.
TY: One of Uniqlo's principles is "Simple Made Better." Ms. Sander is a pioneer of that philosophy. Simple and beautiful clothing is not possible without persistent commitment to detail, and it was this attitude that made us confident of pursuing a collaboration with her. I believe that Ms. Sander is a genius with a rare aesthetic sense and passion, and at the same time an unrivaled person able to continue creating timeless and ultimate styles for years to come.
What did you think and feel during the pandemic?
JS: Nature became much more important. In the countryside, you could move quite freely, and the beauty of our garden gave us back optimism. It was good to care for plants and take long walks in the woods and meadows. For almost two years, we were unable to travel to Tokyo. The collections were conceived entirely on a digital basis. But as it turned out, virtuality and seclusion didn't present greater problems and things worked out fine. This is largely a fruit of our ongoing Uniqlo collaboration and the familiarity of our teams. We knew each other well and had trust in each other. As to my ideas during the pandemic, I was confident that we would master it eventually. Intense work on the +J collections kept me focused, and I had ample time to reflect on the mental and social changes, the pandemic brought with it. We became more humble and grateful for the civilization we are graced with, and for our collected know-how which is finding its way out of that terrible challenge.
TY: The spread of coronavirus reminded me of just how deeply connected the world is. Nearly every company in the world faced the question of whether they could turn this crisis into an opportunity. The superficial is no longer acceptable, and the authentic is in even greater demand.
What have you gained from each other through this 12-year relationship, and what do you hope to apply in the future?
JS: My +J project was to bring the quality and sophistication of my high fashion experience to a large audience and to offer attractive, modern uniforms to a widely connected, discerning urbane customer. The ambitious goal was to approach the people of today's world, assist them through clothes in their self-assurance and in their readiness to engage in common goals. It was very rewarding and almost stupefying to me how Uniqlo managed to produce our very demanding collections on a global scale without a blink of an eye.
TY: I think of +J as taking Ms. Sander's vision and expertise in high fashion and democratizing it through our commitment to quality and manufacturing capabilities. Being able to present the essential qualities of Ms. Sander to all types of customers around the world provided a great deal of confidence to Uniqlo. We will never forget the dedication Ms. Sander has brought to making apparel and plan to use it to nourish further growth.
And lastly, a thought about the future?
JS: I will remain very curious of Mr. Yanai's ideas. And I am confident, that he will develop his world embracing vision further. I want to thank him for his trust and our great collaboration, and I wish him good luck and all the best for his future endeavors. Now, we close a chapter, and I wonder what the future will look like.
TY: I will be extremely interested to see where Ms. Sander's boundless passion and creativity takes her next. Ms. Sander's creations are timeless, but I cannot help but look forward to the new things she will create. I also hope we are able to once again excite the world together, someday.
