Margarita Forés on Her Son Amado: 'He Reminds Me of Me When I Was Younger'

It all began when A Mano was recognized as one of the top pizzerias in Asia Pacific by the online platform 50 Top Pizza. Coming in at number 48, the relatively new restaurant bested numerous other local Italian-themed dining outlets in the list that came out in early August 2022. 

A Mano was in good company. Alongside the pizzas of fellow Filipino restaurants Wildflour Italian (No. 38), and Crosta Pizzeria (No. 32), A Mano’s inclusion in the list was a big boost for local restaurateurs that offer the Italian staple to diners increasingly becoming more fastidious with their standards, not to mention their palates.

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The hands and brains behind A Mano, led by Amado Forés and his mother Margarita “Gaita” Forés, flew to Singapore for the awarding. It was there where they met other giants in the industry, including the folks behind Thailand’s Pizza Massilia, which, at number six on the list, was officially “the best pizza in Bangkok.”

Fiori di Zucca, Prosciutto di Parma, Fior Di Latte

Photo by PJ Cana.

It was during a master class conducted by Chefs Luca Appino and Michele Fernando of Pizza Massilia that Chef Gaita Forés got the idea for a collaboration between the two award-winning restaurants.

“They were teaching about the nuances of the crust; what to do if you want make a semolina crust, what to do if you want to make a Roman crispy pizza,” says Chef Gaita Forés, who was once named Asia’s Best Female Chef by the organization that runs the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. “I told Amado, I said, my god these guys are so knowledgeable and they're Bangkok-based, so they understand the weather of Thailand and they would understand the weather here in the Philippines as well.”

In addition to being included in the list, A Mano was also named the Solania One to Watch 2022.

Cotechino Nuggets with Lemon Maionese

Photo by PJ Cana.

“So Amado felt really pressured, and said, ‘Oh my god, I have to like, find a way to learn more about what makes our crust the way it is and how we can make it better.”

Amado got in touch with the Bangkok-based Italian chefs and, luckily, both were willing to make the trip to Manila. It was both their first time to the Philippines.

The chefs’ packed itinerary culminated in a so-called “pizza party” where the culinary minds of both Pizza Massilia and A Mano came together to work on a lovely and satisfying five-course menu.

The meal started with a “fritti” or fried course: Cotechino Nuggets dipped in a lemon mayonnaise sauce, and Fiori di Zucca, or prosciutto di Parma wrapped around succulent squash blossoms.

Burrata & Culatello

Photo by PJ Cana.

The tasty and appetizers were quickly followed by the much-awaited pizzas. The chefs served two kinds: the first was the Burrata and Culatello, which was a simple pizza packed with flavor from the generous burrata cheese and culatello, or meat from the pig’s rump. The second pizza was Anchovy Cantabrico and Oregano, whose defining feature were the slivers of anchovies from Spain.

“The Italians are gracious enough to admit that the anchovies from Spain are much better than theirs,” Gaita Forés remarked. 

Both pizzas were sublime and no-nonsense, with a noticeable focus on the perfectly baked crust.

The third course was a treat: Tartufo Nero calzone, with freshly shaved truffles served tableside by Chef Luca himself. The pizza master didn't skimp on the trufles; it’s difficult to imagine a more decadent dish.

Chef Luca shaving truffles tableside on the Tartufo Nero calzone

Photo by PJ Cana.

The pasta course was a Spaghettini ‘Nduja, made with the spicy sausage and tomato sauce. It’s to the chefs’ credit that they elected to replace a bowl of pasta that’s been left sitting on the table for a bit too long with a fresh batch, which reflects their commitment to serve nothing but quality food the way they want it done.

The meal was capped off by a Nutella Soft Serve Gelato, which was served in a small glass that many guests were eventually scraping with their spoons to gather every last bit of the melted treat.

Spaghettini 'Nduja

Photo by PJ Cana.

Anchovy Cantabrico & Origano

Photo by PJ Cana.

Although the menu itself is a one-off special during Chefs Luca and Michele’s visit, Gaita Forés says there’s a chance some of the dishes may find themselves in A Mano’s regular menu, particularly both pizzas (the Burrata & Culatello and the Anchovy Cantabrico & Origano).

The visit from the Bangkok-based chefs was also timed to officially introduce the second branch of A Mano at Bonifacio One in Bonifacio Global City, Taguig. The original, is of course, in Powerplant Mall in Rockwell, and stellar reviews from diners led to the expansion of the brand to a new location in BGC. Although the new branch has only been open a couple of months, Gaita Forés reveals there are already plans to open another branch eventually.

Fresh truffles

Photo by PJ Cana.

Nutella Gelato

Photo by PJ Cana.

“He has so many things going on,” Gaita says of his son Amado. “He has so many things up his sleeve. I'm very happy because he reminds me of me when I was younger. So parang I can relax na a little bit.”