All the Important Terms Every Serious Foodie Should Know

Food intel to make you a legit epicurean.
ILLUSTRATION: Dan Matutina

Adlai

This little known grain is love atĀ first bite for both chefs and curiousĀ eaters. Abundant in MindanaoĀ and brought to the spotlightĀ by the Department of Agriculture'sĀ Berna Romulo-Puyat, AdlaiĀ (or Job's Tears) was the starĀ ingredient at the 2015 MadridĀ Fusion Manila (MFM). EveryoneĀ was singing praises for this versatileĀ alternative to rice and corn,Ā especially those who were ableĀ to try Tippi Tambunting's dish atĀ MFM, which paired this springyĀ grain with juicy pork belly.

Biodynamic Agriculture

Being organic isn't enough anymore,Ā especially when the wordĀ is overused and often abused for marketing purposes. While theĀ principles behind biodynamicĀ farming have been around sinceĀ the 1920s—it refers to creatingĀ a diversified, balanced andĀ natural ecosystem in which toĀ raise produce—it has only gainedĀ widespread traction fairly recently.Ā Taste the difference whenĀ you order produce from HolyĀ Carabao, the forward-thinking,Ā healthy food purveyor that is anĀ advocate of this movement in theĀ Philippines.

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Calamansi

I’ll go straight to the point:Ā calamansi is the new yuzu. WhileĀ it is ubiquitous to us, it’s stillĀ pretty exotic for the rest of theĀ world. This small package packsĀ a potent and unique citrus tasteĀ that makes it great in anything—as a requisite acid to cut throughĀ rich flavors or as a tangy touchĀ in a trendy cocktail. ManilleĀ Liqueur de Calamansi has been aĀ big boost to its popularity outsideĀ the Philippines, because it hasĀ become the go-to gourmet giftĀ to replace the expected, but stillĀ delicious, dried mango.

Death of Food Porn

Food snobs—those who refuse to eat without white tablecloths or consult the star rating before booking—are a dying breed. Today, it's not about the most expensive or exclusive, but all about the most exotic. We have Bourdain and Zimmern to thank for ushering in this anti-elitist dining movement. The criteria are based on effort: How far did you travel for a true taste of Isaan cuisine? Who never gave up in the search for ingredients to make ghee? These gourmands demand authentic experiences, and are more likely to populate their #foodporn feed with finds from a dingy side street.

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Education

Remember in the early 2000sĀ when the hottest thing was toĀ enroll in culinary school? Well, those who took the gamble areĀ most probably reaping the gains,Ā but we’ve learned that cooking school isn't just for those whoĀ want to make a career in food,Ā but also for home cooks and food lovers who just can't get enough.Ā If you’re one of them, visit CasaĀ Artusi, which opened its firstĀ Asian campus right here onĀ our shores. From pasta-making,Ā Italian degustation dinners to an amazing in-house shop, it justĀ goes to show that there’s an insatiableĀ appetite for anything food. Not a surprise considering we allĀ have to eat to survive.

Four Hands

The saying "tooĀ many cooksĀ spoil the broth"Ā does necessarilyĀ apply in a worldĀ obsessed with collaboration. FourĀ Hands dinners,Ā where two chefsĀ come together toĀ cook one cohesiveĀ meal, have beenĀ all the rage. ItĀ appealing to bothĀ chefs and diners—cooks get to challengeĀ the status quo while hardcoreĀ eaters get toĀ try two differentĀ cooking styles inĀ one go. The bestĀ perceived pairingĀ would be twoĀ chefs with opposingĀ styles thatĀ hopefully resultĀ in a harmoniousĀ synergy. RecentĀ examples of chefsĀ with good chemistryĀ include RichardĀ Ekkebus andĀ Corey Lee, who cooked togetherĀ at Amber in HongĀ Kong to promoteĀ the latter’s bookĀ Benu, and theĀ pairing of veteranĀ Juan Carlos deĀ Terry with chef-of-the-momentĀ Bruce Ricketts inĀ a collaborativeĀ dinner last May 2015. A month before, Toyo Eatery's Jordy Navarra also had a collaboration with Chef Alvin Leung of Bo Innovation.

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Grand Gelinaz Shuffle

The idea sounds preposterous—get the world’s top chefsĀ to exchange identities andĀ restaurants for one night only.Ā Then, ask diners to reserve a seatĀ without knowing who’ll be cooking.Ā To be fair, neither the chefsĀ nor diners really knew what theyĀ were getting (or getting into).Ā But in a time when every courseĀ is painstakingly documentedĀ on food blogs, being in the darkĀ sounds extremely appetizingĀ and brings back the anticipationĀ that made dining out exciting. OnĀ July 9, 2015, the culinary jetsetĀ experienced the Gelinaz shuffleĀ for the first time, the luckiestĀ of who lapped up Noma’s ReneĀ Redzepi's cooking at Nahm inĀ Bangkok. Let's hope this becomes an annual event.

Heirloom Rice

That we import rice from ourĀ neighboring countries not for theĀ sake of variety, but to be able to meet demand, is a bone of contentionĀ in the Philippines. ThoughĀ we are far from meeting our productionĀ targets, it’s good that weĀ are finally exploring our ā€œnativeā€Ā form—heirloom rice. The difference in color, taste and textureĀ adds an interesting dimensionĀ to this staple; it’s also a healthierĀ alternative to the industriallyĀ farmed variety. Buy a portionĀ from Legazpi Market or check outĀ Arrozeria, which features heirloomĀ rice from the Cordilleras inĀ their Spanish recipes.

Indian by Gaggan

All of us revel in restaurants thatĀ have a strong sense of place, butĀ Gaggan, the number one restaurantĀ in Asia’s 50 BestĀ Restaurants Awards two years in a row is far fromĀ meeting this criterion. CapitalizingĀ from its unique position—beingĀ an Indian restaurant in Bangkok—can only last so long. The real draw isn't the novel formula or Gaggan’s beautiful setting, but the playful, ā€œprogressive Indianā€ cooking of chef Gaggan Anand. Mixing molecular techniques that intensify flavors and offer an element of surprise, both novices and experts on Indian cuisine are in for a revelation. Just make sure you make a reservation.

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Junking Junk

The farm to fork movement started a concerted push to eliminate, or at least minimize, the prevalence of junk food. If the slumping sales of McDonald’s are to be taken as an indication, we’ve certainly turned a corner when it comes to junking junk. the wellness trend is also due some credit—from natural food to nutraceuticals, we’ve certainly become more discerning about what we put into our bodies. You are what you eat indeed.

Kinilaw

The ambassador of Peruvian cuisine, ceviche has taken over the world with endless variations available from Miami to Manila. Our local version, kinilaw, also instantly impresses—it was the dish that Margarita Fores, Enting Lobaton and Myrna Segismundo presented at Madrid Fusion 2015, received with much acclaim. Instead of leche deĀ tigre, the various vinegars used to ā€œcookā€ the raw seafood makes our very own kinilaw stand out. It’s a local dish that showcases the beautiful seafood available in the Philippines, while also shining the spotlight on our myriad vinegars.Ā 

Lima

Peru has undoubtedly cemented itself as a culinary destination, and Lima a rightful global food capital. Home of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards for the past two years (the event is moving to Mexico this year), the city draws plenty of food-loving tourists eager to try out Virgilio Martinez’s Central, the number one restaurant on the list. Martinez presents a microcosm of Peru on a plate—making use of indigenous produce that showcases Peru’s biodiversity. We should rip a page out of their book on how to promote a country through its food, as well as how to make use of ultra-local produce.

Mexican Redux

From bulgogi beef burritos to scallop uni tostadas, there’s no other food that is open to more experimentation but Mexican cuisine. For good reason: Mexican flavors exude pure comfort and its dishes are fairly easy to elevate. Global food lovers search for authenticity, but are also looking for bit of whimsy; and nothing hits the food g-spot more than a mix of comforting flavors with premium ingredients. Get your fix at Ooma or a bit further, at Chino in Hong Kong.

Nuts

What’s driving international chefs nuts? Nothing more than the humble pili nut. Reports from Madrid Fusion Manila say that the pili nut was a revelation for foreign chefs, who loved its unique, buttery flavor. It’s good news for all of us: apart from being healthy and easily available, the Philippines is one of the few countries in Southeast Asia that commercially produces this nut, making it a big export opportunity.

Oyster

Already know your Chablis from your Chardonnay? Well, level up by mastering another kind of tasting note—that of oysters. Much like wine, the nuances of an oyster’s flavor are determined by weather, terroir and farming methods. Get started by bookmarking In a Half Shell and downloading one of the many apps to familarize yourself with the difference between a Moyasta and Kongai oyster.

Philippines

Named an ā€œemerging country of influenceā€ in the Future of Food report by marketing communications firm Catch On, the Philippines is on track to be a strong culinary force if we continue to play our cards right. This requires a solid synergy amongst farmers, chefs, and consumers, as well as strong leadership from the government in setting the direction and molding the narrative. The interest is certainly growing, so when people ask you what Filipino food is really like, take on the role of ambassadorĀ and entice the uninitiated.


Quinoa

The story of how quinoa came to be a success story illustrates the most important qualities we’re looking for in our food—natural, healthy, exotic. Quinoa and other grains has become a staple pantry item for health nuts and incessant eaters, and proves that future food trends will centre on the health aspect. See also: Adlai.

Reservations Please

While 'casual fine dining' outlets and no reservations restaurants have become the norm nowadays, Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, the duo behind New York’s Eleven Madison Park argue that fine dining is ripe for a comeback. The reason: quality of service. According to Guidara, who spoke at this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Congress, people are getting tired of paying top dollar for a cramped space with incompetent service, which has led to a resurgence in demand for formal dining experiences. He goes on to explain how at Eleven Madison Park, they look into those who’ve made reservations to learn more about their preferences. This ensures that the experience is not only luxurious, but also tailored to the diner. Talk about going the extra mile.

Sour

Say goodbye to umami, the global taste profile is going sour. Calamansi, vinegar, and other souring agents are having a moment, matched with a growing interest in pickling and fermentation.

Third Culture Cooking

Some may consider the CaliforniaĀ Roll an aberration, but this isĀ a prime example of third cultureĀ cooking. Mixing cultural influencesĀ to a delicious outcome isĀ more than just ā€œfusionā€, but recognitionĀ of how global food experiencesĀ have become. AlmostĀ every trendy restaurant featureĀ a multicultural slant—visit YourĀ Local and 12/10 to have a properĀ taste. Sriracha mayo, anyone?

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Ultra Local Produce

ā€œJet-freshā€ used to be a positiveĀ description… not anymore. TheĀ closer the ingredient source is toĀ a restaurant, the more premiumĀ the offering becomes. Top restaurantsĀ such as Aziamendi andĀ Narisawa focus on the traceabilityĀ of their ingredients andĀ routinely feature indigenous,Ā seasonal produce. The logic isĀ simple: good food comes fromĀ great ingredients, and knowingĀ where it comes from guaranteesĀ quality. In fact, this is not a trend,Ā but a mandate in many a progressiveĀ kitchen. Something we couldĀ also apply to our homes. See also:Ā Zero Carbon footprint.

Vegetables

Every chef can cook a perfectĀ steak, but many stumble onĀ something simpler: vegetables.Ā It’s not just about proteins; theĀ new determinant on whetherĀ a chef or restaurant is good, isĀ whether or not they can makeĀ vegetables shine. And we’re notĀ talking about kale chips.

Wild Ways

Who still wants to eat foam?Ā While scientific techniques areĀ part of every chef’s skillset, it'sĀ not necessarily the way food isĀ advancing. The pendulum hasĀ firmly swung the other way—there’s a yearning for down-to-earthĀ flavors and simpler techniques.Ā Watch Netflix’s Chef'sĀ Table documentary and see howĀ Francis Mallmann’s Gaucho grillingĀ and Ben Shewry’s cavemanĀ methods strike a chord. FromĀ cooking with an open fire outĀ in the wild to baking potatoes undergroundĀ in a natural oven, old-schoolĀ ways are the new cool.

Xoconostle

Native to central Mexico, XoconostleĀ is a kind of prickly pearĀ cactus used in salsas and lovedĀ for its acidic flavor. This ingredientĀ yet again proves how theĀ profile is moving towards sour,Ā citrus flavors and also shows howĀ chefs and diners are continuouslyĀ rediscovering what’s rightĀ in their backyard.

Yannick Alleno

Being able to make a good sauceĀ is the foundation of French cooking.Ā Lauded chef Yannick AllĆ©noĀ has unveiled a new techniqueĀ called extractions, one that heĀ worked on for over two years.Ā A report at Fine Dining LoversĀ detailed that AllĆ©no’s innovativeĀ method includes a reductionĀ process called ā€˜cyroconcentration’,Ā in which ā€œthe extractedĀ liquid is added to a sorbet styleĀ ice before it’s spun very quicklyĀ in a centrifuge. The liquid isĀ drained and the ice that remainsĀ in the centrifuge plays a similarĀ role to that of steam in traditionalĀ heat reduction—a sort of coldĀ evaporation.ā€ This meticulousĀ technique results in stronger,Ā concentrated flavored sauces thatĀ is the base of any amazing dish.

Zero Carbon Footprint

A lot of us worry about our carbon footprint when we travel, but as food documentaries and books have taught us, industrial food processes are the biggest contributors. Be part of the solution: eat a little less beef, eat a little more local, and perhaps start planting. A small thing goes a long way.

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Kissa CastaƱeda-McDermott
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