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Life

Echoes of Colonial Past: Exploring Sri Lanka’s Historical Tourist Destinations

By Christa I. De La Cruz
Sep 26, 2024

Sri Lanka's unspoiled natural wonders and largely intact heritage sites are two things that stood out to me after spending 10 days in the island nation in South Asia. The vastness of the surrounding forests from the top of well-preserved Sigiriya are as far as the eye can see. There's no evidence of deforested land or quarries when you look out to their rolling hills. Ancient fortresses, old temples, and historical monuments still stand to this day.

Our tour guide said that this is likely because of Sri Lankan's predominant religion, Buddhism, which places great emphasis on respect for the past and its traditions as well as nature. There's also the fact that the country is relatively isolated from external influences, particularly during periods of conflict or upheaval in neighboring regions. This has helped shield its historical sites from widespread destruction.

The third factor is that the Sri Lankan government has made significant efforts to protect its heritage sites through legislation, conservation, and education. It also helps that Sri Lanka has eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, which ultimately safeguards these places at an international level.

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Temple of the Tooth, a UNESCO Heritage Site in Kandy, houses the relic of the tooth of the Buddha.

Temple of the Tooth
Christa I. De La Cruz

ALSO READ:

A Journey Through Ancient Kingdoms, Vast Safaris, and Scenic Hikes in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka's History of Colonial Rule

But while the country boasts ancient cities and kingdoms, it still has remnants of its colonial past.

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The European interest in Sri Lanka began in 1505 when the Portuguese arrived in Colombo. Their arrival marked the beginning of a series of colonial conquests that would shape the island's future. In 1658, the Dutch ousted the Portuguese and established control over the entire island except for the central Kingdom of Kandy. The British began their takeover in 1796, and by 1815, they had conquered Kandy, bringing the entire island under colonial rule, calling it British Ceylon. Each of these colonial powers had their own methods of control and exploitation, which laid the groundwork for the British.

Queen's Hotel in Kandy was originally built as a residence on instructions from King Sri Vickrama Rajasinha. When the British captured the Kandyan Kingdom in 1815, it was adapted as a mansion for the Governor of Ceylon.

Queen's Hotel in Kandy
Christa I. De La Cruz
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The Portuguese established a foothold in Sri Lanka by capturing coastal areas and imposing their rule through military might and religious conversion. Their legacy includes the introduction of Christianity and the fortification of key ports, which became crucial in subsequent colonial endeavors.

The Dutch focused on trade and economic exploitation. They established a monopoly over the island's lucrative cinnamon trade and implemented a more bureaucratic form of governance. The Dutch also left behind a legal and administrative framework that the British would later adapt and expand.

The British faced a complex socio-political landscape. The island was divided into various kingdoms and chieftaincies, each with its own alliances and rivalries. The Kingdom of Kandy, in particular, posed a significant challenge due to its strategic location and formidable defenses. The British employed a combination of military force and diplomatic maneuvering to bring Kandy under their control in 1815.

The Nine Arch Bridge (a.k.a. Bridge in the Sky) is part of the Upcountry Railway Line of Ceylon, which was built during the British period. The bridge was designed to accommodate a challenging nine-degree curve and steep gradient.

Nine Arch Bridge
Christa I. De La Cruz

The British colonial period saw significant changes in Sri Lanka's governance, economy, and society. They introduced plantation agriculture, particularly tea, which became the island's primary export. This led to the importation of Tamil laborers from India. The colonial period also saw the introduction of Western education, legal systems, and infrastructure development. 

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The island officially became a dominion on February 4, 1948, changing its name from British Colony of Ceylon to Dominion of Ceylon, which meant it was an independent country but still shared a monarch with other dominions of the Commonwealth. It became a republic named Sri Lanka in 1972.

Historical Tourist Destinations to Visit in Sri Lanka

Each of the three colonizers left indelible marks in Sri Lanka's cultural and physical landscape, some of which now serve as tourist destinations.

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PHOTO: Christa I. De La Cruz

1| Nuwara Eliya: The Little England of Sri Lanka

Nuwara Eliya District in Central Province, Sri Lanka, is centered on the tourist city of the same name. It's situated in hilly terrain, giving it a temperate climate, the coolest in the whole of Sri Lanka.

It is this temperature that enticed British civil servants to make it a hill country retreat back in the day, much like the Philippines' Baguio, where American officials would escape to during summer in the lowlands. Now called "Little England," its streets are lined with red-brick buildings, Tudor-style hotels, and well-manicured gardens.

Nuwara Eliya Post Office

Nuwara Eliya Post Office
Christa I. De La Cruz

An example of its colonial architecture is the Nuwara Eliya Post Office, a Tudor-style two-storey red-brick building with a clock spire that was constructed in 1894. The post office still operates more than a hundred years later.

Lake Gregory

Nuwara Eliya Lake Gregory view
Christa I. De La Cruz

Nuwara Eliya Lake Gregory
Christa I. De La Cruz

Less than three kilometers away is Lake Gregory, a man-made reservoir created during the period of British Governor Sir William Gregory in 1873. The area was originally a swamp, but Gregory authorized the damming of the Thalagala stream originating from Mount Pidurutalagala. Since the British times, the lake has been used for water sports and recreation.

Hakgala Botanical Garden

Hakgala Botanical Garden
Christa I. De La Cruz

Sri Lanka botanical garden
Christa I. De La Cruz

flowers at Sri Lanka botanical garden
Christa I. De La Cruz

Another must-visit is the Hakgala Botanical Garden, one of the five botanical gardens in Sri Lanka. It was established in 1861 under George Henry Kendrick Thwaites, originally for the purpose of serving as experimental grounds for the commercial crop Cinchona. Then, in 1884, Hakgala was transformed into the garden that it is today.

Seetha Amman Temple

Nuwara Eliya Sita temple
Christa I. De La Cruz

Ramayana, an epic from ancient India, says that the area where Hakgala Botanical Garden was the hiding ground of Sita when she was abducted by Sri Lankan King Ravana. Seetha Amman Temple was built near the garden entrance. It is also believed to be the site where Hanuman met Sita.

Tea plantations en route from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya

Tea plantations
Christa I. De La Cruz

Tea plantations from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya
Christa I. De La Cruz

Tea lovers will find Nuwara Eliya to be a paradise.  Its altitude of 1,868 meters made it an ideal location for tea production, which was introduced by the British. The town is surrounded by tea estates, where visitors can take guided tours to learn about the tea-making process, from plucking the leaves to the final production. A visit to a tea factory provides an insightful experience of Sri Lanka’s tea industry. Tasting freshly brewed Ceylon tea amidst the lush plantations is an experience not to be missed.

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PHOTO: Christa I. De La Cruz

2| Galle Dutch Fort: A World Heritage Site

Galle Dutch Fort, located in the Bay of Galle on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka, has a colorful history from one colonizer to another. The fort's strategic location made it a vital point of defense and trade. It was established by the Portuguese in 1588, fortified by the Dutch in the 17th century, and then captured by the British in 1796. Officially, "Old Town of Galle and Its Fortifications," it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988.

Galle map
Christa I. De La Cruz

The Old Gate of Galle

Galle Old Gate
Christa I. De La Cruz

Galle walls
Christa I. De La Cruz

Galle's "Old Gate" was completed by the Dutch in 1669, which is indicated on the inscription above the entrance. It also has an emblem of the Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC, the Dutch East India Company), which is a relief with a rooster on a rock above a shield, flanked by two lions. When the British captured the fort in 1796, they moved the emblem to the inside of the gate and replaced it with a coat of arms of King George III.

Galle port
Christa I. De La Cruz

Galle cannon
Christa I. De La Cruz

Galle fortifications
Christa I. De La Cruz

Groote Kerk (Dutch Reformed Church) was built in 1640. The walls and floor near the altar are marked with grave stones.

Galle reformed church
Christa I. De La Cruz

The Old Dutch Hospital is now a commercial building for shopping and dining establishments.

Galle Old Dutch Hospital
Christa I. De La Cruz

Most of its original walls, structures, and even cannons still stand. The Old Dutch Hospital, on the other hand, was converted into a shopping and dining precinct in 2014—with the original exterior preserved.

These preserved sites of colonial architecture in cities like Kandy and Galle are proof of Sri Lanka's rich tapestry of history and culture that continues to shape its identity today. Don't miss out on these places for a glimpse of the country's storied past.

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