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Life

Sri Lanka Travel Guide: A Journey Through Ancient Kingdoms, Vast Safaris, and Scenic Hikes

By Christa I. De La Cruz
Sep 4, 2024

When I was told I was going to Sri Lanka, I really didn't know what was out there. A quick Google search after I had already said yes to the invitation showed that it's a lot like the Philippines with its mountains and forests—except there are elephants. I would later find out that it's not a fair description because the island nation in South Asia is so much more.

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Echoes of Colonial Past: Exploring Sri Lanka’s Historical Tourist Destinations

Sri Lanka's Geography, Climate, and Environment

Sri Lanka, historically known as Ceylon, is a teardrop-shaped island in the Indian Ocean, separated from the Indian subcontinent by the Gulf of Mannar. Because it lies below the equator, the country's climate is tropical, with rainfall patterns influenced by monsoon winds: southwest monsoon ("yala") from the Indian Ocean and northeast monsoon ("maha") from the Bay of Bengal. Sri Lanka lies almost parallel to the Philippines, so their yala is our habagat, and their maha is our amihan—happening around the same months, too.

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This kind of climate, much like in the Philippines, gives the South Asian country a tropical forest biome with remarkable biological diversity and a notably high number of endemic species. The around 65,000-square-kilometer island nation with mountainous interiors has several ecosystem classifications, each having its own rich flora and fauna: terrestrial, lowland rainforests, savannas, inland wetlands, coastal lagoons and estuaries, and more.

Sri Lanka's forest cover makes up 70 percent of the total land area, at least by the dawn of the 19th century, when this number has decreased progressively. Still, you can see most of its mountains covered by lush vegetation, which I can't help but compare to the Philippines' dwindling forest cover, increase in quarried hills, and obviously eroded mountains due to logging and mining.

Our tour guide said that Sri Lanka's terrain remains largely intact due to significant conservation efforts, especially in their protected areas and national parks. Religion also plays a part in the country's environmental awareness, as Sri Lankans are predominantly Buddhists. The guiding principles for many believers include living simply to respect all life forms as well as balance and peace in nature. Sri Lankans also implement traditional land use practices, leading to sustainable food production. Sounds too good to be true, but breathing in fresh air while looking at dense mountain forests—at least outside the capital of Colombo and away from the cities, would make anyone want to believe in its unspoiled landscape.

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All these factors pave the way for making Sri Lanka a haven for adventurous travelers, a fact that's yet to be made more popular to boost the country's tourism. But once it strikes gold in its messaging, it's only a matter of time before tourists fly to the island to experience its adventure vibe that's both exhilarating and serene.

Things to Do in Sri Lanka for the Adventurous Traveler

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The majestic Sigiriya Rock Fortress was once the seat of power of King Kashyapa.
PHOTO: Christa I. De La Cruz

1| Climb the path to Sigiriya's ancient kingdom

Rising majestically from the central plains of Sri Lanka is a 180-meter massive column of granite: Sigiriya (a.k.a. Lion Rock). From afar, it looks like a giant tan-brown rock that has sprung up from a dense forest, but once you walk closer, astonishing details of rock shelters and caves appear. Once you follow its maze-like path, the ruins of a complex citadel are revealed.

Sigiriya Rock from afar
Christa I. De La Cruz
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Ancient stone pathways and steep stairs lead to the summit of Sigiriya Rock Fortress.

Sigiriya Rock boulders and staircase
Christa I. De La Cruz

Sigiriya Rock steel staircase
Christa I. De La Cruz


Archeological evidence shows that its surrounding caves and rock shelters have been occupied since prehistoric times, likely by Buddhist monks between the third century BC and the first century AD. By the fifth century AD, it served as the citadel and palace of King Kashyapa I, the eldest son of King Dhatusena to a non-royal wife.

Kashyapa was actually not the heir to the throne, being born from a non-royal consort. His half-brother Moggallana was supposed to be the second king of the House of Moriya (455–691 AD), which belonged to the Anuradhapura Kingdom (437 BC–1017 AD)—the second-established kingdom in ancient Sri Lanka after the Kingdom of Tambapanni (543–437 BC).

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In true family-drama fashion, Kashyapa, in 477 AD, seized the throne through a palace coup that he carried out alongside the commander of the king’s army commander and nephew, Migara. Migara himself was seeking vengeance for a disagreement between him and the king. Dhatusena was imprisoned and murdered, Moggallana fled to South India, and Kashyapa took over the Anuradhapura Kingdom.

But instead of residing in the traditional capital of Anuradhapura in the north-central plain, he moved the capital to Sigiriya and developed it into a complex city. The massive rock's natural size and structure made it an ideal fortress, with boulders serving as gates and walls to the palace of Kashyapa at the summit. With the way that he got the throne, he was a likely target of Moggallana and his army.

True enough, Moggallana trained an army in India, returned to his father's kingdom, and declared war. Legend has it that the Kashyapa's battle elephant changed course while he was riding it. His army thought it meant they were to retreat, which they did, thus abandoning their king. Kashyapa, too proud to surrender, killed himself with his own dagger.

Moggallana seized back the throne and returned the capital of the kingdom to Anuradhapura. Sigiriya was converted into a Buddhist monastery complex, which remained until the 13th or 14th century.

In 1982, the Ancient City of Sigiriya was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The approach to Sigiriya is as awe-inspiring as the fortress itself. Visitors are greeted by a series of meticulously landscaped gardens, considered among the oldest in the world. Holes on the ground, water-retaining structures, and man-made reservoirs indicate what once was a sophisticated irrigation system. You can see small waterways on the massive rock as you go up, which connects the reservoirs at the summit to the gardens down below. These subsurface hydraulic systems were necessary as Sigiriya lies in a dry zone.

After the gardens, visitors go through the boulders that once served as lookout spots for Kashyapa's army. Warning signs about the presence of wasp nests are found in the area. Locals believe that these wasps are reincarnations of the kingdom's army, which still guards the citadel to this day.

Wasp nests cling to the rugged rock face.

Sigiriya Rock wasp nests
Christa I. De La Cruz

A spiral staircase leads to the cavern of frescoes.

Sigiriya Rock spiral staircase leading to the cave
Christa I. De La Cruz

In a cavern on the western side near the summit are well-preserved ancient frescoes depicting detailed figures of maidens with colorful headdresses, jewelry, and clothing. The images, all painted with natural pigments, come in pairs: one light-skinned female and one dark-skinned female. Interpretations differ, one of which is that it portrays the relationship between royalty and a servant, and another is that it speaks of lightning ("vajjukumari") and thunder ("meghalata"). Some accounts say that there used to be 500 paintings flanking the stairway to the stone walls, but only 21 frescoes remain today. Photographs are prohibited in the fresco pocket, which can be reached through a steel spiral staircase.

Lion's Gate

Sigiriya Rock lion's gate
Christa I. De La Cruz

View from the Lion's Gate, just before climbing the last set of stairs.

Sigiriya Rock view
Christa I. De La Cruz

One of the most striking features of Sigiriya is the Lion's Gate. This grand entrance, flanked by massive lion paws carved from the rock, once featured a colossal lion statue, symbolizing the might and power of the king. While the lion's head has long since crumbled, the paws remain, standing guard over the entrance to the summit.

View from the top of Sigiriya.

Sigiriya Rock view from the top
Christa I. De La Cruz

Sigiriya Rock water reservoir
Christa I. De La Cruz

Finally, after more than 1,000 steps of both an ancient staircase and modern-day steel steps, visitors are offered panoramic views of the surrounding countryside from the summit. Up there are remnants of the palace complex, including cisterns, foundations, and throne rooms, allowing visitors to imagine the grandeur that once stood atop the rock.

The Toque macaque is found everywhere in Sri Lanka.

Sigiriya Rock toque macaque
Christa I. De La Cruz

You can also spot the Sri Lanka Gray Langur in forested areas.

Sigiriya Rock gray langur
Christa I. De La Cruz

Stray dogs are common in Sri Lanka, even at the summit of Sigiriya.

Sigiriya Rock street dogs
Christa I. De La Cruz

Sigiriya is located in the northern Matale District near the town of Dambulla, which is 145 kilometers away from Negombo, where Bandaranaike International Airport is located. (Note: Bandaranaike International Airport is not in Colombo.)

If you're taking public transport from Negombo to Sigiriya, you first have to get to Kurunegala (three hours), then to Dambulla (two hours), and then to Sigiriya (one hour). Entry to Sigiriya is U.S. $35 per person (as of 2024). It is open from 5 a.m. to 5 p.m. Going up and down the fortress, including stopping to rest and take photos, takes about two to three hours.

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Kelani River in Kitulgula is known for the white water rafting activity where riders navigate the roaring rapids surrounded by the natural beauty of the rainforest.
PHOTO: Christa I. De La Cruz

2| Go white water rafting in the Kelani River

Kelani River in Kitulgula, a small town in the west of Sri Lanka, stretches from the Sri Pada Mountain Range to Colombo. It's the fourth-longest river in the country, contributes to hydroelectric production in Sri Lanka, and supplies 80 percent of the water used in the capital.

But aside from these functions, Kelani River should be on your radar if you're looking for an exhilarating white water rafting experience. It's also perfect for beginners, given that it only has three major rapids (at least during our ride), and the rafting lasts only between 40 and 60 minutes.

Kelani River surrounded by rainforest
Christa I. De La Cruz

View during Sri Lanka White Water Rafting
Christa I. De La Cruz

Rafting starts out with a tranquil ride downstream, just enough to warm up riders for the upcoming twists and turns. It's also the perfect time to watch for the endemic Toque macaque swinging through the trees, the Black Eagle soaring above, or a Common Kingfisher resting on the low branches.

After going through fairly easy rapids, the seasoned guides navigate the boat through a series of three major rapids in progressing drops. The last 15 minutes are once again spent in calmer parts of the river, where you can remove your helmet, jump off the raft, and swim.

Sri Lanka White Water Rafting with Big Group
Christa I. De La Cruz

Sri Lanka White Water Rafting and Conquering the Rapids
Christa I. De La Cruz

Ceylon Leisure Adventures is one of the many adventure service providers in Kitulgula, which is about 100 kilometers away from Colombo. It takes about three hours if you're doing private transfers from the capital. White water rafting costs start at U.S. $30 per person for a group of four or more.

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The lovely mountain town of Ella boasts breathtaking views.
PHOTO: Christa I. De La Cruz

3| Hike Little Adam's Peak

If you're a foreign tourist, it's almost impossible to skip visiting Ella, a town in the Badulla District of Uva Province, Sri Lanka. It's popular among Westerners, especially since it has a cooler climate, being up in the highlands, surrounded by hills, and covered with cloud forests.

One of its hotspots is the Little Adam’s Peak, which requires a relatively easy hike—almost a leisurely walk. It's part of a private property that has been developed for tourists: 98 Acres Resort & Spa, the Ravana Pool Club, and the Flying Ravana Zipline.

98 Acres is packed with tourists.

Resort near Sri Lanka Little Adam's Peak
Christa I. De La Cruz

Little Adam's Peak is about 1141 meters above sea level, but the trailhead already starts at a high elevation, so the climb is really just a few hundred meters. The trail is easily accessible from the main street, with the initial part having a flat path and a series of stairs. It only gets a little bit rugged towards the end, with the top already within sight to make the climb more encouraging. Little Adam's Peak rewards you with spectacular panoramic views, even for just a short hike.

The last push to the summit.

Summit of Little Adam's Peak
Christa I. De La Cruz

View from the top of Little Adam's Peak.

View from the top of Little Adam's Peak
Christa I. De La Cruz

Little Adam's Peak is named after the sacred mountain in the southern reaches of the Central Highlands in the Ratnapura District and Nuwara Eliya District of the Sabaragamuwa Province and Central Province in Sri Lanka. It is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists, who believe that the footprint-shaped mark at the summit is that of Buddha's left foot. Sri Lankan Hindu tradition says that the footprint is that of the Hindu deity Shiva, while Christians believe that it's the footprint of Adam, thus the name. Adam's Peak, especially when compared to Little Adam's Peak, has trails reserved for the more experienced climbers. It has six trails, including the ascent via Hatton that's taken by pilgrims.

Nine Arch Bridge

Nine Arch Bridge
Christa I. De La Cruz

The best way to end the day in Ella is to check out Nine Arch Bridge (a.k.a. Bridge in the Sky), a viaduct bridge that's part of the country's colonial-era railway system. It's named after the number of arches found below the bridge. If you're lucky, you can catch a train crossing the bridge for a scenic photograph.

Ella is 235 kilometers from the airport. To get there, take the bus to Colombo Fort Train Station, then ride the train straight to Ella. The scenic train ride around the Sri Lankan highlights is recommended for any traveler.

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Yala National Park is Sri Lanka's premier destination for spotting leopards, elephants, and bird species
PHOTO: Christa I. De La Cruz

4| Spot three of Sri Lanka's "Big Five" at Yala National Park

Sri Lanka has up to 28 national parks scattered throughout the country, with each declared as a protected area. Aside from providing spaces for scientific research on flora and fauna, they also serve as destinations for safari tourism. Yala National Park in the southeast is one of the country's oldest national parks and is the second biggest after Wilpattu National Park in the northwest. The park's dynamic landscape and rich biodiversity make it a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike.

Sri Lanka Yala National Park trucks
Christa I. De La Cruz

Ironically, Yala used to be a hunting ground among the elite under British rule. It was designated a wildlife sanctuary in 1900 and then a national park in 1938. Yala is home to 215 bird species—seven of which are endemic; 44 species of mammals; 47 species of reptiles—six of them are endemic; 18 amphibian species; 21 freshwater fish; and a variety of other flora and fauna. If South Africa's "Big Five"—the term coined by big-game hunters to refer to the five most difficult animals to hunt, but later referring to the five most difficult animals to see in a safari—include the lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and African buffalo; Sri Lanka's "Big Five" are the Sri Lankan Elephant, Sri Lankan Leopard, Sri Lankan Sloth Bear, Blue Whale, and Sperm Whale. The first three are common at Yala National Park, while the marine mammals are often seen off the coast of Mirissa in the south.

Herd of elephants

Sri Lanka Yala National Park herd of elephants
Christa I. De La Cruz

The elusive Sri Lankan leopard on top of a rock.

Sri Lanka Yala National Park Leopard
Christa I. De La Cruz

Yala National Park is divided into five blocks, with Block 1 being the most popular due to its high leopard population. Aquatic birds are abundant in the wetlands, where elephants also sometimes converge. Animals roam freely across the blocks, even off the official property of Yala, as the national park doesn't really have fences and borders.

Wild water buffalos

Sri Lanka Yala National Park water buffalo
Christa I. De La Cruz

Painted stork

Sri Lanka Yala National Park Painted Stork
Christa I. De La Cruz

The park's management emphasizes the need for a minimal human footprint to preserve the delicate balance of its ecosystems. Visitors are not allowed to get out of the safari trucks, and safari guides and drivers seldom come close to the herds to make sure that the animals are undisturbed in their natural environment. For this reason, it is best to bring a pair of binoculars and cameras with long-focus lenses. Remember that the park is the wildlife's home, and visitors are just, well, visiting.

Wild rabbit

Wild rabbit
Christa I. De La Cruz

Indian peafowl

Indian peafowl
Christa I. De La Cruz

We got lucky. An elephant was foraging just outside the gates of Yala National Park at sundown.

Sri Lanka Yala National Park Elephant
Christa I. De La Cruz

Safaris can be booked as part of a complete package or separately through accommodations near the Yala National Park. Options range from luxury resorts to rustic camps, catering to different budgets and preferences. Jetwing Jungle Lodge, in particular, is within the buffer zone around the park, so expect to have an elephant come foraging in the morning near your cabin.

Yala National Park's nearest city is Kataragama in the Monaragala District in Uva Province. It is open from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., and the best time to visit is from June to September. Entry points are through Katagamuwa (Gate 1) and Palatupana (Gate 2).

When asked if Sri Lanka is prepared for a surge in tourist arrivals, Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau's Director for Marketing, Dushan Wickramasuriya, said that they're not gunning for mass-market tourism. They want to bank on niche tourism, where there are specific market segments they want to tap into, especially given the diverse tourism products and services that Sri Lanka has to offer.

The above list, for example, is perfect for tourists who are into adventure travel, safari tourism, and even photography. Other places are best for history buffs, culture-focused travelers, or those seeking wellness through their ayurvedic health resorts. In Sri Lanka, there's something for everyone, making sure that tourists "will come back for more," as their tourism slogan goes.

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