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Long Reads

The Last Train Stop Before Heading to Ukraine's War

By Robert Spangle
Jul 13, 2023
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Above: 1 of 21: Awaiting a train departure in Kramatorsk, the farthest stop east on this rail line open to civilians.


On the eastern front of Ukraine, Kramatorsk is where the rail line ends and the frontline begins. Though the troops’ forward line is twelve miles away, the city lies within range of enemy artillery, which Russian forces remind its citizens of daily. In April 2022, at the Kramataorsk rail station, Russia carried out one of its worst attacks on Ukrainian civilians, killing 60 and wounded over 120. Today, the station bears no sign of the tragedy that unfolded here just over a year ago; it has once more become a site of constant turnover, farewells, returns, reunions, feelings of hope and desperation.

Soldiers of the Ukrainian Armed Forces (UAF) see loved ones off, await combat replacements, welcome home wounded comrades in recovery. Many soldiers waiting to depart from Kramatorsk for the west carry scars—crutches, eye patches, recently amputated hands—where they hope to receive better medical treatment.

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For the soldiers returning from Bakhmut, which has seen the war's most bitter fighting, little more needs to be said than its name. Once home to a population of 71,000, the city has been decimated, the site of an estimated 100,000 casualties between Ukrainian and Russian forces, and is now in the hands of the invaders. Theirs, however, was a Pyrrhic victory; the battle over Bakhmut is ongoing and remains a struggle of strategic significance.

Additional reporting by Anya Korzun.

2 of 21: Most military vehicles picking up and dropping off soldiers at the station are in fact re-purposed civilian cars, now pockmarked with Russian artillery.

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PHOTO: Robert Spangle
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3 of 21: UAF soldiers await the return of a friend from the west to the front.


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4 of 21: Leave is rare for Ukrainian soldiers, so it is here, in Kramatorsk—the farthest stop east on this rail line open to civilians—where they’re able to meet up with their partners, families, and loved ones.

5 of 21: Some soldiers depart for the front lines while others return. Still others re-unite with loved ones. Even the bouquets are patriotic.

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PHOTO: Robert Spangle
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6 of 21: Velintin, 21, has been in Bakhmut since December, serving in the 38th Brigade alongside his brother and his girlfriend. Velintin waits for her before departing for the west.


7 of 21: Velintin waves goodbye to his girlfriend, Daria, 18, who’s departing for the safety of Odesa, while his brother Oleksandr, 22, stands by.


8 of 21: Zahhar, a medic and ambulance driver for the 10th brigade, returns to Kyiv for medical treatment. He has fought since 2014 and now suffers from spinal injuries, burns, and organ damage.

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PHOTO: Robert Spangle
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9 of 21: A UAF soldier waits for a train departing west.


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T0 of 21: UAF soldiers wait to see if there is space for them on a westbound train.

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PHOTO: Robert Spangle
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11 of 21: Veleriiy, a member of the Territorial Defense Forces, returns home to bury his mother.


12 of 21: UAF soldiers say goodbye to their girlfriends.


13 of 21: A Land Cruiser used by the military shows the signs of seven months on the eastern front. Most UAF vehicles are civilian makes pressed into military service. Unarmored, these vehicles rarely last more than a few months.

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14 of 21: Eduard, who serves with the Territorial Defense Forces, waits to depart west after being injured.


15 of 21: Two Ukrainian SU-27s conduct combat maneuvers over the eastern front.

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16 of 21: A UAF convoy that includes a Humvee donated by the United States stops on the side of the road on its way from Bakhmut.


17 of 21: Car crashes are common near the eastern front due to a combination of dated vehicles, poor road conditions, and occasional artillery fire.

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18 of 21: “Everything will be alright,” a man says over and over to a loved one through the train’s glass window.


19 of 21: Mykla, a veteran of the Ukrainian Air Assault Forces, now serves with the Territorial Defense.


20 of 21: Mykla bids his wife a familiar farewell.

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21 of 21:A soldier says goodbye to his girlfriend, who has taken the train to visit him.


From: Esquire US

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