MOSCOW—There’s a war happening about 500 kilometers west from here, but you’d never think it walking around the city and especially near the country’s seat of power. Muscovites go about their day bundled up in layers of winter clothing, walking to the metro on the way to work or tending to their shops.
The inaugural edition of the BRICS+ Fashion Summit took place in Moscow, Russia
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That the city is generally safe and is ready to conduct business with the outside world seems to be the general consensus among delegates of the inaugural BRICS+ Fashion Summit, which is being held at the Russian capital. Some 200 participants from over 20 countries around the world flew in to attend the far-reaching and wide-ranging event meant to create a global community centered around fashion and creativity. The summit has a strong focus on the business aspect of the industry, whose collective value is worth an estimated $1.7 trillion.
St Basil's Cathedral at Red Square is a symbol of Moscow and of Russia
PHOTO: PJ Cana
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The core of the summit is a series of panel discussions featuring professionals and experts across a broad range of topics. There was a session on the popularity of resale platforms in Russia, particularly with the pullout of numerous Western fashion brands from the country following the breakout of conflict in Ukraine; how Web3 and other emerging technology are impacting the world of fashion and whether things like AI can fully replace creative pursuits such as fashion design and journalism; how fashion brands are funded today; and tips on how to grow local brands in order to make them more competitive in the global market.
Besides the countries in the BRICS bloc (Brazil, Russia, India, China, and South Africa), participants from many different sectors of the fashion industry traveled from all over, including representatives of fashion associations, academics, startup founders, entrepreneurs, designers, and media. There were jewelry designers from India; fashion designers from Indonesia, Namibia, and Senegal; atelier owners from Serbia and Lebanon, social media and video content creators from Mexico and Egypt, fashion week organizers from Paraguay, Costa Rica, Ghana, and Nigeria, and journalists from Pakistan, Argentina, and Vietnam, among many others.
Fashion leaders and professionals from across the globe gathered in Moscow to discuss key issues related to the industry
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Of course, there were also fashion shows that featured exclusive collections from name and up-and-coming designers, including Hany El-Behairy from Egypt, Manzil al Davidtlale from South Africa, and others from Indonesia, India, and Russia.
Representative from the Philippines
The lone representative from the Philippines is Bench Bello, a designer and event organizer who is behind the Manila International Fashion Week (MIFW). The former corporate worker and fashion apprentice was previously involved with fashion week organizers in Brooklyn and Boston in the U.S. before coming back home to Manila to help mount MIFW as well as the first local fashion film festival. What started as an online event in 2020 due to the pandemic has grown to become an anticipated event in the local fashion industry. The first physical event happened in October 2022 at Okada Manila Resort and Casino. It was followed by a carnival-themed fashion showcase held at Star City last July. Bello said there will be another fashion show coming this December.
Bench Bello (right) was the lone representative from the Philippines invited to speak at the Summit
“It's not just a job for me,” he tells Esquire Philippines during an interview at a restaurant here. “My advocacy is really to make fashion accessible to all. It’s all about diversity and inclusivity.”
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Bello was invited to speak on two panel discussions. The first was about celebrity style and the successful collaborations between fashion and film. The second was a discussion about diversity and inclusivity within the fashion industry, which he says was perfect as it aligns with his own advocacy. He also presented 16 fashion films from filmmakers based in the Philippines and abroad.
“I’m proud to represent the Philippines here and share how talented Filipinos are,” he said. “I think the main thrust of this event is to build connections and establish a global community.” Bello said he has already connected with organizers of fashion week shows in different countries and that they are already laying the groundwork for a global fashion showcase.
Bello said it is his advocacy to promote diversity and inclusivity within the fashion industry
“I’m so thankful for this opportunity,” he added. “I’m doing my best to make the country proud.”
Cultural excursions
In addition to the fashion events and educational sessions, delegates were exposed to excursions around the city that showed off the breadth and scale of Russian arts and culture. Organizers prepared special itineraries that summit participants could choose to go on, including trips to museums, exhibitions, and other cultural sights around Moscow.
Creations from an Egyptian designer at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit
Fashion shows featuring the creations of designers from different countries were a highlight of the Summit
There were visits to the Moscow Museum of Modern Art; the Russian Impressionism Museum; the Bolshoi Theater; a grand tour of the cathedrals and museums inside the Kremlin, including the Assumption, Annunciation and Archangel Cathedrals, the vast collections of imperial objects in the Armoury; and the Ivan the Great Bell Tower; and a tour of Moscow’s famous Metro system.
The event was also an opportunity to show off Moscow’s interesting and diverse food scene. Lunch and dinner arrangements were at casual and upscale restaurants that served traditional and modern Russian cuisine, as well as those influenced by other cultures.
There was a B2B showcase at the Summit where participants were able to present their products and deal with other fashion professionals around the world
“This event is a way to show the true face of this city, which truly doesn’t sleep,” according to a representative of the Russian Ministry of Culture during the gala dinner held at the Four Seasons Hotel attended by all the delegates to the summit. “I invite you all to fall in love with the city. Moscow is open for you and your creations.”
One of the grand Metro stations in Moscow. Summit participants were invited to go on cultural tours around the city for a deeper understanding of the ountry and its people
Russia is currently involved in armed conflict against neighboring Ukraine. In February 2022, Russian forces invaded the eastern border of Ukraine upon the orders of President Vladimir Putin. This was an extension of the 2014 Russian invasion of Crimea. The attack resulted in severe sanctions, particularly by the United States, the European Union, the United Kingdom, and others. Many independent companies have also scaled down or exited the Russian market altogether, including financial companies like Visa, Mastercard, and American Express, as well as food brands like McDonald’s and Dunkin Donuts, and some of the world’s biggest fashion brands, including Adidas, Chanel, Gucci, Hermes, H&M, and all the brands under LVMH. The sanctions have triggered an economic crisis in the country.
While delegates to the Fashion Summit were well-aware of the current conflict, most chose to focus on the objectives of the event.
“This is a great way to connect with other industry professionals from other countries,” said a New York-based Mexican fashion filmmaker. “This was good of Russia to organize such an event.”
Delegates gather for the gala dinner held at the luxurious Four Seasons Moscow
“More than the learnings from the different educational sessions, I think the real takeaway here is the linkages we’re all able to make with colleagues from across the globe,” said a journalist from South Africa. "We’re able to establish all of these connections so we’re able to carry the conversation forward even after the end of the summit.”
Despite the very real war happening in the country whose end is still not in sight, many delegates have already started inquiring whether another Summit will take place next year. Organizers I talked to said no plans are set in stone yet, but they are hopeful that a 2024 edition of the Summit will happen.
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