Every year, Esquire Philippines presents Man at His Best, the local iteration of a global signature event where we celebrate extraordinary Filipino men and women reshaping society as we know it. These are the dreamers and doers who have made a profound impact on the Filipino's way of life, who are using their talents and skills to make something of themselves and inspire the rest of us to do better with our lives.
This year, we're honoring nine mavericks and legends in film, music, business, politics, and entertainment. Despite coming from disparate fields and industries, they all have one thing in common: all of them exemplify what it means to be a Man at His Best.
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Meet Esquire Philippines' Restaurateur of the Year, Amado Fores
Opening three successful restaurant concepts and six branches in five years is no easy feat, given the extremely competitive dining scene in the Philippines and the disruptive impact of the pandemic. Despite these challenges, millennial restaurateur Amado Fores' businesses not only survived but are now thriving.
Five-year-old Italian restaurant a mano, which now has branches in Powerplant Mall, Bonifacio Global City and Araneta City, continues to gain accolades for its pizza. It was recently ranked 12th in the list of 50 Best Pizzerias in Asia-Pacific and placed 96th in the 100 Best Pizzerias in the World.
Amado wears Barena Venezia Giacca borgo navy jacket and Ami Paris shirt (homme et femme 8 Rockwell)
The noodle joint Ramen Ron, which consistently delights ramen enthusiasts, has opened a second branch and has had successful collaborations with celebrated chefs Margarita Fores (Cibo, Grace Park Dining, Lusso, The Loggia, Museya Kafe) and Jorge Mendez (Modan, Some Thai). Meanwhile, the less-than-a-year-old Steak & Frice is winning over taste buds with its innovative take on surf and turf.
"I feel blessed now that it's been five years and we're still doing as well as we did when we started, which I think is something to be proud of," the usually shy and reserved restaurateur tells Esquire Philippines in our interview at the AF Hospitality office and kitchen in Makati.
One of the challenges Fores and his team is facing is the ever-changing and evolving tastes of Filipino diners. "It's not about being trendy but addressing the gaps in the market," the 33-year-old entrepreneur observes.
A family holiday trip to Italy in 2018 inspired Fores to open the Italian restaurant a mano. In photo: with his mother, Chef Margarita Fores.
Inspired by Italy
Fores subscribes to the ideals of growth and transformation, drawing from his personal experiences. For instance, he never planned on being in the hospitality business. He completed his degree in Political Science at the College of the Holy Cross in Worcester, Massachusetts, but admits, "I wasn't sure where it would take me."
His interest in and appreciation for food may have begun in his growing-up years, inspired by his family's love for eating well. He was also naturally exposed to his chef-mother Margarita Fores' work. "When my mom was opening Cibo [in 1997], I was across the street in a Japanese restaurant eating tempura," he remembers, smiling. "But even from afar, I could see her work ethic and her love for what she was doing."
Interning at Jeepney, a Filipino restaurant in New York, gave him a sense of home while living abroad and also sparked his love for the industry. "The internship was brief but it allowed me to absorb what was around me," he shares, adding that this inspired the mission of his company, AF Hospitality, which is "making guests feel at home."
But ultimately, it was during a family holiday trip to Italy in 2018 that Fores realized what he truly wanted to pursue. "On this particular trip, we researched the signature regional dishes of Italy-the classics that define Italian cuisine, such as ragu and carbonara. I fell in love with discovering the best version of each dish. I think that's what prompted me to open a mano, which is a fresh and faithful Italian restaurant," he says.
"It's not about trying to do something new. It's about finding the little intricacies that will make our dishes stand out..."
Amado wears Barena Venezia shirt and Ami Paris long-sleeves (homme et femme 8 Rockwell).
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Culinary adventures
While the dishes at a mano are anchored in Italian traditions, they strive to find little tweaks to create the best versions, says Fores. "It's not about trying to do something new. It's about finding the little intricacies that will make our dishes stand out-whether it's sourcing the best ingredients or utilizing techniques shared by other chefs who have traveled here to collaborate with us. Their generosity and knowledge have been invaluable."
The idea to open Ramen Ron was born out of Fores' love for ramen, particularly Ukokkei Ramen Ron located on Pasay Road, owned by Chef Tamura, one of the pioneering ramen chefs in the Philippines. "Ukokkei Ramen Ron was one of my and my family's favorite spots while I was growing up," shares Fores.
During the pandemic, the chef, who had spent over 10 years in the Philippines, expressed a desire to return to Japan. But Fores and his team persuaded him that his true home was right here. "What was so nice is that he trusted us with his brand, not to change the things that mattered to him, but also to bring it to the next level, which is what Ramen Ron is now," he says. The ramen house has branches in Edades Tower in Rockwell Center and One Bonifacio High Street.
Finally, Steak & Frice is the venture where Fores gets a bit more creative. "It's not your traditional steakhouse. We serve steak with French fries, but also with steak rice, because as we all know, here in the Philippines, everything's just better with rice. We opened that in December of last year, and it's been doing quite well. I'm proud of it," he says, adding that many of Steak and Frice's dishes are inspired by childhood food ideas and concepts he hesitated to try five years ago. "Now, I feel more confident. I'm able to be more creative and playful with our menu, of course, in collaboration with our team."
On leadership: "Show kindness above all, and understand that it won't always be smooth sailing with them. But you have to stick it out, support them, and remain committed to finding solutions together."
With his AF Hospitality team
Team effort
Achieving success in any endeavor doesn't happen overnight, Fores attests. While he's on top of the company, working almost 24/7 over the last five years, he stresses that everything is a result of team effort. "Learn from your mistakes and try to find ways to improve and to prevent it from happening again," he shares his learnings. "Consistently work towards your goals."
Growing a business comes down to having a strong core team and providing them with ample training. "Training means not just teaching your team the ins and outs of actual hospitality, but also ensuring that your vision, mission, and values align with theirs. It's about having a consistent goal moving forward and making sure they understand the direction we're all headed in."
Fostering a team effort, he says, is about treating both your customers and your team like family. "Show kindness above all, and understand that it won't always be smooth sailing with them. But you have to stick it out, support them, and remain committed to finding solutions together," he says.
As for handling criticisms, Fores believes it's important to hear people out and treat them first as feedback, assuming they mean well. "Listen and then learn from it. The response has to be immediate-what to say to the guest or anyone who has negative feedback. And more importantly, it's about finding ways to show them that you have long-term solutions to prevent it from happening again."
"[My mother's] influence is more about her consistency over the years rather than specific things she did."
A young Amado with his mother Margarita
Growing up with Margarita
Fores' mother, Margarita, is a highly regarded figure in the Philippine dining scene. While she has made a name for herself with her restaurant concepts, she gained international recognition when she was named Asia's Best Female Chef in 2016 by Asia's 50 Best Restaurants.
We asked Amado how growing up with a renowned chef and restaurateur for a mother has influenced his approach to business. "Her influence is more about her consistency over the years rather than specific things she did," Fores muses. "It's been more than 25 years, and she treats her people the same way, her customers the same way, and her work ethic remains as strong as when she started."
He adds that there was no pressure to achieve his mother's level of success, though he consciously wanted to carve his own path. "That is why a mano is very different from the Italian restaurant she started. While the rules of Italian cuisine remain the same, I really tried to create a distinct concept," he says.
Reflecting on his journey, Fores fondly acknowledges the impact his mother has had on his career. "All the things I've learned and heard from her, just by being in her periphery, are quite evident in my restaurants. So, as much as I want to say I did it my own way, I think her influence is still there. It's hard to shake off-but in a good way," he says, the corners of his eyes wrinkling into a smile.
With Chef Jordy Navarra of Toyo Eatery, who he admires for championing Filipino ingredients.
In good company
Besides his mother, Fores says he's also thankful to a lot of chefs and peers in the business who have been very generous in giving advice, and who have served as inspiration to him.
One of them is Chef Jordy Navarra of Toyo Eatery, who he admires for championing Filipino ingredients. "I try to apply that in all my concepts, whether Filipino or not," he says.
He also holds Eliza Antonino and Abba Napa of The Moment Group in high regard, especially for their ability to grow their restaurant group while maintaining exceptional quality. "They really made an impact with the food culture here in the country," he says.
Within the Fores family circle, his Tito Oye, Tita Malou, and cousin Raul have been great inspirations. "They've grown their restaurant group while maintaining the heart and soul of their brand, as well as ensuring that their food standards remain as delicious as when they first opened," he says.
Crucial to the growth of his restaurants, Fores says, is being open to seeking advice from experienced and knowledgeable individuals. Understanding that others can provide valuable insights and assistance has been a vital factor in his success.
