Pocket Squares for Beginners

Let’s face it, pocket squares are a rare sight nowadays — and it’s such a shame. You can think of pocket squares as a cherry on top of a well-tailored suit: subtle, elegant, and can easily function as a conversation starter before cocktail hour. For such a tiny square of fabric, the pocket square can do so much: whisper your attention to detail and make you look like the kind of gentleman who reads Esquire Philippines (because you do).

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In a world where everyone’s going casual and athleisure even for milestone moments (whether in business or life), be the man who puts in the effort to match your partner’s fit, the businessman who takes things seriously, or even the guest of honor who shows his gratefulness for the spotlight. A pocket square doesn’t scream “notice me,” but those who will take notice will understand that you always place careful thought into your actions — and that tells them everything they need to know.

Get ready, gentlemen: we’re elevating your suit game with this quick guide on pocket squares.

Why Pocket Squares Still Matter

Let’s get the obvious out of the way, shall we? Nobody really needs a pocket square. It’s not a fashion faux pas not to have one, and it’s not a dress code requirement. Born from the practical handkerchief, the pocket square evolved into something purely sartorial, an accessory whose sole purpose is aesthetic.

But make no mistake, the pocket square is not useless. While your suit can survive without it, a pocket square does signal refinement, especially in an age when most men think formal means buying an off-the-rack blazer and the first necktie they see 24 hours before an important event. As grooms should understand, a pocket square is not essential, but it sets your look apart from all of your other guests. And the same is true off the altar. A small square of fabric can separate you from the crowd of identically suited men at formal functions, cocktails, or even Friday night dinners at Manila House.

Still, it’s a nod to tradition. Back when Cary Grant or Fred Astaire — or for a more local icon, former President Manuel L. Quezon — slipped one in their pocket, it wasn’t about being “extra.” It was about completing the look. So even in today’s modern workplace, where putting on a t-shirt for a business meeting has become commonplace and wearing a three-piece suit is deemed overkill, the pocket square survives because for the gentleman who cares, it says: “I didn’t just get dressed. I dressed up.”

And if you ask us, it’s high time men care about dressing up again. Nothing wrong with casual, especially given Manila’s heat and humidity. But when the occasion calls for a suit, a pocket square adds an interesting touch to your outfit without adding layers. And if people say you look out of place, then simply say you’re channeling the men’s fashion in Hong Kong’s financial districts or copying the gentlemen in Milan or bankers in London.

Fabric: Silk, Linen, Wool, etc.

Choosing the fabric for your pocket square is like picking your spirit for the day, or even night. Silk is the go-to: elegant, appears glossy, and drapes easily. Just make sure it’s big enough; anything smaller than 40 x 40 cm (about 16 inches) may slip down your pocket and fade away for the rest of the night.

Linen and wool, on the other hand, have more structure. They fold crisply, puff confidently, and don’t collapse as the day goes by. Linen, in particular, works best in summer or warmer climates. It’s lightweight, breathable, and ideal for daytime events like a garden wedding in Tagaytay. Wool is more textured, ideal for thicker jackets made of tweed or anything heavier. Want to keep it simple? Keep a crisp, white linen pocket square on standby. You can never go wrong, and it almost always works with any suit jacket.

Cotton squares are another option, but they can appear flat against your tailored jacket. They can work for casual wear, perhaps if you’re sporting a chambray shirt and blazer. But if you want something more elevated and elegant, cotton can hardly meet the depth of silk or wool. There’s also a hybrid option: silk-linen blend. It’s shiny enough to look somewhat fancy and stiff enough to hold shape.

Of course, there’s also cashmere or velvet. Cashmere works best for winter or colder climates, while velvet just adds a splash of drama to a suit. They can be quite impractical for the Philippine heat, but certain situations could call for it, like a December wedding in Baguio. Printed silks aren’t out of the running either: patterns like paisley, polka dots, and more can be a great conversation starter and will definitely separate you from the sea of generic suits. And if you want to rebel just a little: try a patterned pocket square with a simple, muted suit. It’s a subtle wink to a fashion-forward crowd, but at the same time, it doesn’t undermine your suit.

Number One Rule: Match, But Don’t Mirror

When it comes to pocket squares, there’s really no other rule to remember than this: don’t mirror your tie exactly. Keeping in mind the color theory, pick a secondary or accent color from your tie, shirt, or even jacket lining. But they should harmonize, not copy one another. And the fabric should not be the same either.

Matching is about harmony, not duplication. Your pocket square has to complement your tie (and other parts of your outfit), but not echo them. And if you’re feeling a little bolder, you can work with contrasts to create a truly eye-catching outfit. If you do, however, make sure to keep the tones balanced.

Another tip is to know the cultural context. In the Philippines, people don’t shy away from color. Bright, tropical shades can work at garden or seaside occasions. But in South Korea or Hong Kong, you’ll find men are mostly in subtler suits, sporting outfits that have understated elegance instead of loud colors. The key is to know your crowd, environment, and occasion.

But if you want a fool-proof, beginner-friendly pocket square? Get a white one and Bob’s your uncle. White works with almost every tie, shirt, or suit jacket. When in doubt, go for a white pocket square. It’s timeless, versatile, and subtly elegant.
Another tip for styling your pocket square from Rampley & Co: try the +2 Rule. If your usual style is a 3 in terms of flamboyance, adding a square brings it to a 5. It’s enough to be noticed, but not enough to distract.

Last tip: avoid pocket square holders. If you fold it well, it should stay in place. Holders are like clip-on ties; they’re convenient, but embarrassing if noticed. Practice your holds at home and don’t attempt a fancy fold five minutes before leaving. The last thing you want is an uneven, collapsing square.

Pocket Square Folds

Knowing the occasion and vibe is essential in determining which fold would work best. For stiff, formal events: go flat or two-point. Sharp and minimalist. Casual wear? You can allow it to puff a little, lending a relaxed statement to your equally approachable outfit.

The basic “one-point,” also known as a triangle or single peak fold, is one of the basic folds anyone can pull off. Fold your square in half twice. Once you have a smaller square, fold it in half diagonally, connecting the lower right edge to the upper left one, resulting in a triangle. With one tip pointed up, fold in the two lower points of the triangle, creating a pentagon. Tuck the flat end into your pocket, making sure the triangle tip is visible.

Another basic fold is the presidential fold. It’s fit for the boardroom; sharp, clean, and almost invisible. It’s one of the easiest folds anyone can do. Lay your pocket square on a flat surface, then fold it vertically in half. Take the bottom edge and fold it upwards, leaving a quarter inch of the fold behind visible. This would depend on the depth of your jacket’s front pocket.

But if you’re over the “basic folds,” there are folds for showing off. There’s the puff fold, ideal for the fashion-forward man. If you want something with a bit more flair, like a wedding, for example, then go for the crown fold or three-point fold.

Speaking of weddings, always consider the event or occasion when deciding on a fold. For black-tie dinners, choose a minimalist one. Sunday brunches? You can go for a puff fold. There are also experimental folds, like the wave fold, for truly fashion-focused events if you ever find yourself sitting front row in the Manila Fashion Week.

Also, balance is everything. You want about 1 to 1.5 inches of square visible, enough to just hint your style and taste. Too little and it’s pointless to even have a pocket square. But too much and it looks like you’re about to pull off a magic trick. Of course, there’s consideration for culture. Italians love a generous puff, while the English lean towards a more reserved, barely visible fold.

Caring for Your Pocket Squares

Storing and caring for your pocket square is also very important. Iron or steam it flat before folding. This small step makes a world of difference. But that also fabric: silk should be gently steamed, while linen can take a good press. For wool, you can press, but use a cloth between your iron and the square.

When it comes to storage, don’t ball them up in a drawer. Fold them neatly or roll them loosely to avoid creases. Some enthusiasts even store them like fine cigars in boxes. While it’s not necessary, your squares could last years if treated well.